So basically the idea is to establish an accurate annular ring around the tubing to measure off from? Hmm, I'm going to try something, hopefully it works. Plumbing pipe will not, as you point out, snugly fit the tubing diameter except by accident. That said, I just got back from Home Depot, making some minor purchases, and I brought home one of those snap-on plastic covers for shower curtain rods. They have what looks like a good squared-off machine-cut end, and the smallest diameter is going to be smaller than the smallest tubing I'll encounter other than stays. Might need to cut two sections, one from each end, to overlap if a section of tubing like the head tube is greater than the rod cover's "max". If it does not work I am out only a couple of dollars (and I use them as friction-reducing covers on closet hanger rods anyway!)

And Doh! It occurred to me to check my computer's (skimpy) collection of stored photos and I find I have two of the bike before stripping; the decals were in the higher position between the shift bosses and bottle bosses.

Four frames down, one to go. While not as precise at aircraft-quality tubing (which I'd certainly use if I did this for a living!) the results are fine to my eye. I cut two short sections about 2-1/2" long. To cut, I used a tiny miter box I bought to cut track for my wife's HO railroad. Mounting two sections concentrically (one on top of the other) but the open ends ( Guess frame tubing is a little larger than a curtain rod) 180 degrees apart, I got a "ring" around the tubing that works. This allowed placing a tape line (luckily, lime green 1/8" masking tape shows up really well on bright red frames).

Peel-n-stick decals, three from Cyclomondo and one set of (frightfully old?) decals from the Palo Alto shop, applied "wet", no luck being able to "slide" into place but I could lift/move, and like the results. The final set, bought from SSSink which I found out about through BF, is a far different technology, rub into place and remove covering film.

Well, I learned a thing or two yesterday when I applied the decal set to my sixties something Torpado...


I learned that the water/soap solution can and should be sprayed onto the tubing surface and the sticky side of the decal. Gently position the decal applying little pressure (pressure will begin the stick to the bike). Once satisfied with position, start in the middle and work out toward the edges to remove air/soap/water from under the decal. Velocals suggested using a smooth credit card as a tool to help push the stuff out from under the decal (works great but do not use the edge - use the flat surface to smooth the decal towards the edges.

Final results in about six hours when I hope to remove the protective application material that is still protecting the decals as they dry into place.

What I used was this: TOOL I like the felt edge. Indeed, one of the companies I bought decals from included a tool exactly like this but without the felt. Yeah, a credit card is cheaper and probably right in most homes.

Well, the Velocals procedure was right on the mark. The decals went on and, thanks to the generous application of water/soap solution, they could be gently repositioned (don't press at all during the locating process or the decal WILL stick). I let them dry over night before attempting to pull the transfer mask or what ever it is called (someone told me a better name in another thread but I forgot it).

With great care, I removed the transfer mask and found myself pleased with the result...