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Old 05-22-21, 08:03 AM
  #19  
dabac
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Originally Posted by PimpMan View Post
For asymmetrical rear hub with 7 speed freewheel i need to set dishing towards the center of fork not center of hub.
The way it is usually described is that you center the rim between the locknuts. For assymmetrical hubs - disc brake fronts and derailer gear rears - this means the rim won’t be centered between the hub flanges.
Rim being centered between hub flanges is kinda accidental, and not overly important for the function of the bike as a whole. Rim centered between locknuts/dropouts is generally more important.
Originally Posted by PimpMan View Post
...so tension between each side spokes is different.

Somewhere i read "tension for spokes ideally needs to same prevent breaking" is that same tension for all spokes on one side of the rim or every spoke on the rim needs to be same tension?
If you have the same spoke count on both sides, then assymmetric hubs will require different spoke tension for each side of the wheel. Within each side, spoke tension difference should be as little as patience/skill/quality and condition of parts used allows.
Originally Posted by PimpMan View Post

Obviously if i set same tension i will loose dishing, so if i say use 181 mm spokes on one side and 184mm spokes on other side then i can set equal tension?
That will not work.
Different spoke length will NOT let you achieve equal tension on an assymmetric hub.
On an assymetric hub there are basically two things you can do to even out tension:
1) different spoke counts
2) offset/assymmetric rim

There is one more trick, but that doesn’t actually address tension, it influences load or strain.
If you use a thinner spoke on the less tensioned side, then the tension-by-cross section area becomes the same/similar, which is good for spoke longevity.
Basically, if the NDS has 60% tension compared to the DS, then you should use spokes with 60% of the cross section area.
That will keep both sides spokes working equally hard.
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