Originally Posted by
canklecat
If you preferred the "turkey leg" safety levers of the 1970s bikes (I did when I commuted back then), check out the more effective
in-line interrupter brake levers.
I would beg to differ. The "cable interrupter-style" levers offer much less leverage than either the main levers or traditional auxiliary "turkey-wing" levers, so the pull effort is really high compared to either.
The turkey-leg levers work very well on well-tuned systems, but should have a few millimeters of the front edge of the lever body trimmed upward to restore the lost lever travel caused by the tang on the levers.
Some lever bodies came pre-trimmed toward the end of the lever-tang era.
Some of the later turkey-leg levers socket into the side of the main levers, so the above does not apply.
Shimano Dura-Ace and Tourney turkey levers actually
were the main levers, and the regular downward levers acted on those! No surprise then that those models work the best of all, as there are no additional bushings or mechanical connections coming into play:
