Originally Posted by
Darth Lefty
Turns out the number one reason for through axles on new road bikes is people on Bike Forums saying, “Your skewer is wrong. It’s the wrong kind of skewer, the handle is pointed in the wrong direction, it’s on the wrong side of the bike, it’s too far back or forward, it looks like it’s open, just think what would happen if you were riding this very old ten speed bike in a peloton and had a crash… but I don’t need lawyer lips on my fork.“
Yeabut..... How about the thru axles that have the QR type of lever on them? Huh? Shoots your theory out of the water
(meant facetiously of course)
Originally Posted by
Andrew R Stewart
Actually it is more among the non pros that wheel overlapping, and the risk of that point rearward QR lever acting as a hook or latch, that is likely the greater concern. Any one who hasn't ridden up the backside of the rider who they were following (drafting if at speed) doesn't yet have that school of hard knocks pig skin. If the QR lever is pointing rearwards it will prevent the front wheel of the rider behind you from easily steering out and away from you. Generally the pros have had coaching and mentors to heed from, besides their pack riding skills are far more practiced. Gym strong locals, who think riding a trainer or spin bike is great training, are a whole 'nother issue with club packs.
Two shots of my station wagon bike QEs. The rear could be a few degrees more up and parallel to the chain stay. But I think my preference is shown well. Note that the skewers are steel and enclosed cams even though I built this frame with vertical drop outs. Also note the lack of front dropout retention lips. Only my disk braked bikes have them. Andy
The front position (orange fork blades) is the way I've usually set my front lever since the 70s and it is the only correct way to do a front lever. Oh, I take that back. Sometimes I set the lever close to the fork angled upward, but just behind it. That can work with external cam levers, but usually with internal cam levers, the illustrated method works best. NEVER straight back, that's just not right!
For the rear lever, I've always set it in the triangle/V of the seat and chain stays, kind of "tucked" in there.
I guess I've always assumed that the tendency to set the levers horizontal and rearward came from mountain biking? I don't think I ever saw it on a road bike until MTB entered the scene?
But I'm an old guy who is, in regard to QR skewers, stuck in the way it was done in the 70s. Dumb, I know.