Originally Posted by
bulgie
Missed this thread when it was in its prime so this bit of advice is too late: melt the stem out! Melting point of alu is low enough to not hurt the steel.
I have done it several times. I have oxy-acetylene so it only takes 5 minutes, but I'm pretty sure you could do it with an air-propane "Bernzomatic", just takes longer.
On a short steerer you might need some Heat Fence or similar product (I use "Wet Rag") to keep the paint on the crown from getting burnt. The forks I have melted stems from have all had long enough steerers though — no paint damage where it counts, with no extraordinary measures needed.
Molten aluminum doesn't wet out or braze itself to steel, it just rolls out... onto the floor where it splatters against your leg or something flammable, so maybe position a bucket of water under it?
One time I did it outdoors in my crushed-rock driveway, and made this accidental sculpture:
That's upside down from how I "cast" it
I will do this job for $20 for anyone who brings me the fork in Seattle, $30 plus actual shipping if I have to box and ship when done. That includes a light ream and/or hone if needed after to make the steerer bore all nice. Add $20 if it's still in the frame, where I have to cut the stem extension off and disassemble the headset to get the fork out. That part is also easy for me, with a bandsaw, so don't strain yourself too much to hacksaw the stem — not easy if you don't have a good bench vise.
Kurt (@cudak888), did you ever get the eyelet left dropout you needed? I can supply, PM me.
Mark B
Mark, it's not too late - I'm glad I did the experiment anyway. There's still a few ways I can screw this up, and given the damage to this Woodrup and the fact that it's not my size, I'm fine with making a few mistakes. Just the same, being a nice frame gives me the motivation to actually bother with it, so it's all good.
I'm fascinated with what you mention about melting it out. I
had at one time searched this myself, as it did sound feasible, but I exhausted the results with nothing conclusive, as I remember.
I don't have an oxy-acetylene rig myself, but I do have a MAP torch and can get the cooler propane bottle if need be if one needs the cooler temp (but if I should go for the hotter MAP, let me know). Perhaps the one thing I really don't understand yet is how the heat is supposed to be applied. Should the outside of the steerer get the heat directly, thus melting the aluminum through the steerer, or should the flame be shot straight up through the bottom of the crown with the fork tilting down so you're not firing up at the hot-as-hell aluminum dripping down? I assume not the latter, but I'm also not willing to dismiss anything on an assumption.
I have a pair of NOS non-eyelet 1010's that I'd gladly trade for the left 1010 with the eyelet.
-Kurt