Old 03-13-23 | 03:51 PM
  #27  
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79pmooney
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From: Portland, OR

Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder

Originally Posted by pdlamb
I've done that on occasion, but once you start using a tensiometer the minor benefit of the butted spoke is diminished because you have to keep track of which spoke(s) are which gauge. It can be done, either with the gauge Park includes with its tensiometer or by feeling the spoke that seems to be out of whack, but it'll slow you down.
???? I just put my drive-side spokes which are one gauge and length in one pile and the non-drive-side spokes in another. Lace each side from its respective pike. Never have to mic a spoke or feel the butt. And not a whole lot harder than building with the same spokes left and right. Count two piles of 16 instead of one pike of 32, Really, not hard.

Last wheel I built with both 12 and 14 mm nipples as well. (So nice big spoke wrench flats on the much tighter drive-side spokes. Did the same thing there. Again, easy. (If you buy your spokes from Wheelbuilding, they package both spokes and nipples in clear plastic sealed bags nicely marked for length and type/gauge.)
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