Broken spoke - spoke replacement best practices?
03-13-23 | 03:00 PM
#26
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 6,660
Likes: 177
I had a spoke break on my rear wheel. In terms of repair, obviously the simplest thing to do is to get a replacement spoke, install it, and then bring the wheel to true. I'm aware that while this may be the simplest fix, it may not result in the most robust wheel.
A search on these forums suggests that the best practice is to respoke the entire wheel. I interpret "respoke" to mean to get all new spokes - is this an accurate interpretation? Relatedly, rather than replacing all of the spokes, can I get away with replacing just the affected side spokes and reusing the old spokes from the unaffected side?
The other thing I'm considering is to loosen (but not remove) all of the spokes, install the replacement spoke, and then re-tension (and bring to true) the entire wheel. The thinking is that I'd be reusing all the old spokes except for the single new replacement spoke, and essentially rebuilding the wheel so that it is tensioned properly. Is there merit to this approach?
A search on these forums suggests that the best practice is to respoke the entire wheel. I interpret "respoke" to mean to get all new spokes - is this an accurate interpretation? Relatedly, rather than replacing all of the spokes, can I get away with replacing just the affected side spokes and reusing the old spokes from the unaffected side?
The other thing I'm considering is to loosen (but not remove) all of the spokes, install the replacement spoke, and then re-tension (and bring to true) the entire wheel. The thinking is that I'd be reusing all the old spokes except for the single new replacement spoke, and essentially rebuilding the wheel so that it is tensioned properly. Is there merit to this approach?
03-13-23 | 03:51 PM
#27
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 14,191
Likes: 5,326
From: Portland, OR
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
I've done that on occasion, but once you start using a tensiometer the minor benefit of the butted spoke is diminished because you have to keep track of which spoke(s) are which gauge. It can be done, either with the gauge Park includes with its tensiometer or by feeling the spoke that seems to be out of whack, but it'll slow you down.
Last wheel I built with both 12 and 14 mm nipples as well. (So nice big spoke wrench flats on the much tighter drive-side spokes. Did the same thing there. Again, easy. (If you buy your spokes from Wheelbuilding, they package both spokes and nipples in clear plastic sealed bags nicely marked for length and type/gauge.)
03-13-23 | 03:55 PM
#28
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 14,191
Likes: 5,326
From: Portland, OR
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
I'm too lazy. I'd replace the one spoke, tighten until equal with its neighbors (not a whole lot of work) then check true. If close, tweak from there and done. Some spoke numbers, patterns and spoke tensions will go far off breaking just one. But if no damage happened, why do a full truing (unless that's fun).
