Old 06-19-23 | 12:59 AM
  #10  
maddog34's Avatar
maddog34
Senior Member
10 Anniversary
Community Builder
Community Influencer
Active Streak: 30 Days
 
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 7,495
Likes: 3,300
From: NW Oregon

Bikes: 1982 Trek 930R Custom, '91 Diamondback Ascent w/ XT, XTR updates, Fuji Team Pro CF road flyer, Specialized Sirrus Gravel Convert, '09 Comencal Meta 5.5 XC, '02 Marin MBX500, '84 Gitane Criterium bike

Originally Posted by Het Volk
maddog34 Hey - thanks so much for the insight and information. I am starting to feel a little snookered by the shop, and them not at the very least, reaching out to me about the situation with the FD compatibility issue.

As an aside, what I am appreciating more, are the benefits of doing ( or at least trying) to so your own maintenance at home. It offers such a greater opportunity to better understand your own bikes, components and evern components yo-u do not own yet, but likely need.
IF the pull ratio is kinda close, a Ft. Der can be made to work with some creative tuning like a slack cable BEFORE the shifter pulls it, or getting it TIGHT before the Shifter pulls it,then limiting travel via the High Limit Screw. Being a Double crankset helps, since setting up a triple to shift great is trickier than a double..... and the link has an image of the Pull Reverser adapter mentioned earlier in this thread... Here's more Basic info on ft. ders... https://bike.bikegremlin.com/1297/bi...compatibility/

i should add this.. the shop may have been doing their best to get your new frame in place and working... the Selection of New top pull shifters is kinda drying up since most frame Builders use Bottom Pull Ft. der.cable routing now... Or No ft. cable route because of 1x12... Or NO Shift cable routing, AKA: Electronic shifting.

Last edited by maddog34; 06-19-23 at 01:18 AM.
maddog34 is offline  
Reply