Originally Posted by
repechage
yes, but….
the traditional way to check chain line was a STRAIGHT edge passed between the two front rings, undisturbed by any pins (allowance for today) should pass at the midpoint of the cogs in back.
‘the notion that there should be equal distance to the chain stays to the crank arms is a fallacy. The bicycle drivetrain pushes this off to more room on the drive side.
I suppose there are multiple ways to measure it. I just use my calipers and measure from between the two rings, to the center of the seat tube. You don't line anything up with the cogs in the back. You start with the correct measurement in front, and work from there. If your wheel is built correctly and you're using the right size hubs and cassette, you'll get the same chainline in back and then it will line up. If it doesn't, then something is off.
After you've got the chainline correct, you can measure symmetry by lining up each crank arm up with the seat tube, and measure that distance. If one of them sits slightly further out it's not the end of the world, but if it's more than a few mm then you probably have some sort of mismatch. Some cranks are made for assymetrical crank axles, so even if you've got the chainline right, the crank arms might sit uneven.
The OPs bike just needs to be looked at by a competent mechanic. The fact that they put a Campy crankset on a Shimano JIS square taper tells me that he may need a better bike shop.