Originally Posted by
Noonievut
I’m new to quill stems and had some questions. Thanks
1) When you tighten the top bolt is there a general torque spec? I have the Velo-Orange quill stem with removable faceplate. I didn’t notice a torque setting on the stem.
2) Also, for my understanding, if you overtighten does that damage/wear down the bearings like non-quill (e.g., top cap bolt just snug, whereas too tight or too loose not good).
3) For fit reasons, I may switch to something like the VO threadless stem adaptor and traditional stem(s). The bike (Rivendell) has a 1” threaded headset. Is it just a matter of removing the old one and putting a new one in, tightening to spec?
4) Whether the quill stem or the threadless stem adapter, how far down can I push the stem into the headset/head tube before tightening it? I know there is a minimal insertion limit but is there a maximum?
5) Bonus question and nothing to do with stems. When you put an aluminum seatpost (Thomson) into a steel frame (Riv with the seatpost bolt through the frame, no separate collar) do you grease the post? I initially had slip with the stock post and haven’t pulled it out yet to see if it’s greased. I was curious as to whether a fibre paste (with grit) would be good.
I've only used a torque wrench for crank bolts so I can't speak to any torque values for stems or bars for that matter. 6" allen wrenches are great for quill stem tightening. The longer the lever, the easier it is tighten. I'd like to say use "common sense" force, but there really isn't such a thing as I've seen too many people think if more is good, even more must be even better.(( sigh )) I've never had a bar or stem slip of come undone and I go by feel. When the bolt won't turn anymore, taper off the pressure. I find torque values only really useful as a tool to get a feel of how much to tighten something without it. Don't be a slave to it otherwise. I know these are just words, but just words is all we have here. There comes a point where you just gotta trust yourself, without a net, so to speak.
The quill stem has no effect on your threaded headset adjustment. A quill stem shouldn't be slammed all the way down to the bend, at least raise it a few mm's from that so there's no stress point. Sometimes a head tube is short and quill long and the quill only goes in so far. In that case get a shorter quill.
I've used the VO quill adapter and threadless stem for years. Same common sense approach to tightening as above. It can only go down so far, about an inch above where it starts to flare upwards. Other brands without the flare can go lower.
Yes, grease the post and if it's a new frame apply some inside the tube. I prefer using Permatex anti-seize for posts as well as quill stems as it's for aluminum contacting steel. You can get it in bottle with an applicator in the cap. I've hear of many a Riv frames with slipping posts. I find that puzzling myself as I've never anything but perfectly tight fits on all frames I've ever owned. If it does and it's new frame, contact Riv as it's up to them to make it right if the frame isn't to perfect spec. 26.8 or 27.2 means just that ! No one should have to resort to friction paste or torque-heroics to get a post to stay on a steel frame. Apply some anti-sieze to those seatpost bolt threads too, and the inside where the bolts contact the frame, just to make it easiest to tighten.