I’m new to quill stems and had some questions. Thanks

1) When you tighten the top bolt is there a general torque spec? I have the Velo-Orange quill stem with removable faceplate. I didn’t notice a torque setting on the stem.

2) Also, for my understanding, if you overtighten does that damage/wear down the bearings like non-quill (e.g., top cap bolt just snug, whereas too tight or too loose not good).

3) For fit reasons, I may switch to something like the VO threadless stem adaptor and traditional stem(s). The bike (Rivendell) has a 1” threaded headset. Is it just a matter of removing the old one and putting a new one in, tightening to spec?

4) Whether the quill stem or the threadless stem adapter, how far down can I push the stem into the headset/head tube before tightening it? I know there is a minimal insertion limit but is there a maximum?

5) Bonus question and nothing to do with stems. When you put an aluminum seatpost (Thomson) into a steel frame (Riv with the seatpost bolt through the frame, no separate collar) do you grease the post? I initially had slip with the stock post and haven’t pulled it out yet to see if it’s greased. I was curious as to whether a fibre paste (with grit) would be good.

there's no torque spec for this

you want to imagine that you are drawing a wedge or a cone against the walls of the steerer tube

you want it good and snug but do not want to deform or distort the steerer tube.

I'd say 200-240 inch lbs just by guess but your educated "feel" as the bolt tightens is a better guide.

grease the lower stem, wedge, and bolt threads

/markp

I use to straddle the front wheel as I tightened quill stems. Every now and then as I tightened it I would hold the front wheel from moving with my legs and try turn the bars. If they moved the stem in the steerer tube, then I'd tighten the bolt some more till turning the bars wouldn't let the quill stem twist askew.

I think the big concern with over tightening the quill is that it will bulge the steerer tube. And that would be doubly bad if the quill was in the area of the top headset bearing. Which it shouldn't be if you don't go beyond max extension line from showing on the stem.

I think you can push it as far as you can. You'll probably hit the brake bolt before you got it too low to damage the bottom bearing. And that would only be if you had a obscenely tall stem that could make it to the bottom of the headtube/steerer tube.

I'd favor getting that threadless adapter. I used one with my '91 Paramount. It was much easier to change the pista type stems when I wanted to try out different length of reach to the bars/hoods. Didn't have to unwrap the bars and remove the STI's.

I've only used a torque wrench for crank bolts so I can't speak to any torque values for stems or bars for that matter. 6" allen wrenches are great for quill stem tightening. The longer the lever, the easier it is tighten. I'd like to say use "common sense" force, but there really isn't such a thing as I've seen too many people think if more is good, even more must be even better.(( sigh )) I've never had a bar or stem slip of come undone and I go by feel. When the bolt won't turn anymore, taper off the pressure. I find torque values only really useful as a tool to get a feel of how much to tighten something without it. Don't be a slave to it otherwise. I know these are just words, but just words is all we have here. There comes a point where you just gotta trust yourself, without a net, so to speak.

The quill stem has no effect on your threaded headset adjustment. A quill stem shouldn't be slammed all the way down to the bend, at least raise it a few mm's from that so there's no stress point. Sometimes a head tube is short and quill long and the quill only goes in so far. In that case get a shorter quill.

I've used the VO quill adapter and threadless stem for years. Same common sense approach to tightening as above. It can only go down so far, about an inch above where it starts to flare upwards. Other brands without the flare can go lower.

Yes, grease the post and if it's a new frame apply some inside the tube. I prefer using Permatex anti-seize for posts as well as quill stems as it's for aluminum contacting steel. You can get it in bottle with an applicator in the cap. I've hear of many a Riv frames with slipping posts. I find that puzzling myself as I've never anything but perfectly tight fits on all frames I've ever owned. If it does and it's new frame, contact Riv as it's up to them to make it right if the frame isn't to perfect spec. 26.8 or 27.2 means just that ! No one should have to resort to friction paste or torque-heroics to get a post to stay on a steel frame. Apply some anti-sieze to those seatpost bolt threads too, and the inside where the bolts contact the frame, just to make it easiest to tighten.

ALWAYS GREASE METAL ON METAL! Seatposts, quill stems, bolts...A good seatpost and a good frame shouldn't have a difficult interface between seatpost and frame and if you do make sure you have the correct stuff first and foremost, make sure it is properly lubricated and torqued and if still having issues reach out to the frame manufacturer and see what they suggest.,

Andy

You want it functionally tight. Meaning tight enough to steer without slipping.

I do this using the wheel between the knees test described above. It takes amazingly little handlebar force to steer, so if the bars resist twisting, they're tight enough.

I prefer tight enough to need some force to move, but not so much that I can see or feel the fork flex. We used to call this "race tight" because it allowed the bar to twist in a crash, to reduce damage or injury.

For the rest, read Andy's post above.

++1 "Race tight" means your brake lever might survive and race again. (Having the levers themselves mounted "race tight" further improves the odds.) Scarred brake levers were a badge of honor. I've straightened both bars and levers after crashes to ride home.

Thanks everyone for all the advice