View Single Post
Old 02-10-24 | 08:44 PM
  #8  
79pmooney's Avatar
79pmooney
Senior Member
10 Anniversary
Community Builder
 
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 14,150
Likes: 5,273
From: Portland, OR

Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder

+
Originally Posted by FBinNY
You want it functionally tight. Meaning tight enough to steer without slipping.

I do this using the wheel between the knees test described above. It takes amazingly little handlebar force to steer, so if the bars resist twisting, they're tight enough.

I prefer tight enough to need some force to move, but not so much that I can see or feel the fork flex. We used to call this "race tight" because it allowed the bar to twist in a crash, to reduce damage or injury.

For the rest, read Andy's post above.
+1 "Race tight" means your brake lever might survive and race again. (Having the levers themselves mounted "race tight" further improves the odds.) Scarred brake levers were a badge of honor. I've straightened both bars and levers after crashes to ride home.

Last edited by 79pmooney; 02-10-24 at 08:45 PM. Reason: Didn't get my quotes right
79pmooney is offline  
Reply