I’m new to quill stems and had some questions. Thanks
1) When you tighten the top bolt is there a general torque spec? I have the Velo-Orange quill stem with removable faceplate. I didn’t notice a torque setting on the stem.
Park's torque chart suggests from 16-29 foot pounds for the quill/wedge bolt and about the same for a two bolt removeable face plate's bolts. For this stuff I rarely use a torque wrench and instead tighten fasteners enough to stay put when stress tested. But I also have only metal stems and such on my bikes.
2) Also, for my understanding, if you overtighten does that damage/wear down the bearings like non-quill (e.g., top cap bolt just snug, whereas too tight or too loose not good).
No. The bearing preload is primarily set by the threaded top race and its lock nut. There is a very small amount of steerer tube length shortening when a quill stem is installed and tightened so in the ideal world the bearing preload should be adjusted after a stem is installed. But this is a very small factor that most here likely never heard of (because it's so small an effect). One of the nice aspects of a quill type stem in a threaded fork is that separation of stem securement and headset bearing preload adjustments.
3) For fit reasons, I may switch to something like the VO threadless stem adaptor and traditional stem(s)
To show my age I consider that quill stems are the "traditional" design
The bike (Rivendell) has a 1” threaded headset. Is it just a matter of removing the old one and putting a new one in, tightening to spec?
No, without serious fork changes a threadless headset won't properly fit and be adjusted on a threaded fork. The threadless stem (or riser) needs to be clamped to a smooth and stress free surface (the threads are crack starting concentration points) or there's a possibility that the steerer top will crack and break off at a thread. As the threads are covered and hidden from view the usual "periodic monitoring" is far less likely to be done too.
4) Whether the quill stem or the threadless stem adapter, how far down can I push the stem into the headset/head tube before tightening it? I know there is a minimal insertion limit but is there a maximum?
With a quill stem and threaded steerer the usual minimum height/max insertion is determined by a) the bottom of the quill (where the wedge is) can't enter the butted lower portion of the steerer as that section has a narrower ID, b) The stem's exterior shape at the top of the stem grows in diameter or the "fillet" flow of the shape onto the extension's underside flairs out enough to jam up in the steerer's top. Both are fairly obvious and the industry focuses on the opposite limits not being exceeded.
5) Bonus question and nothing to do with stems. When you put an aluminum seatpost (Thomson) into a steel frame (Riv with the seatpost bolt through the frame, no separate collar) do you grease the post?
Yes or even better is an anti seize compound. I initially had slip with the stock post and haven’t pulled it out yet to see if it’s greased.
Post slippage is usually a sign of a fit problem although sometimes binder slot length can be too short to allow good clamping pressures I was curious as to whether a fibre paste (with grit) would be good.
Assembly paste can do wonders for poor fit ups and/or when material/fastener strengths are lacking. It also should act as a galvanic corrosion barrier