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Old 02-22-24 | 08:07 PM
  #15  
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Andrew R Stewart
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Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Rochester, NY

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB

Originally Posted by Garthr
Seeing that I've ridden basic non-pinned/ramped double and triple rings my entire life without issues friction shifting the FD, obviously these "aides" are not necessary. Clever marketing would have you believe you can't live without them... Oh the humanity ! I wouldn't go modifying any chainring teeth. I too suspect either the angle or possibly the height of the FD. I do all my own bike work save make the frame and I've found FD's are highly flexible in their mounting height. I know what the instruction manuals included with the FD's show on paper, but in the real world sometimes a little higher or lower is what works. I'm all about experimenting when what the book says doesn't work. (often !)

Also, more details on your shifting are needed. It's sluggish shifting for mid to small ring in what cogs ? Myself I've never used the tiny ring for anything but 3(of 7) or 4(of 9) cogs or else I'm back on the middle ring. Yet some people as I've read think they can use it on all cogs..... yikes ! Generally when I shift from mid to tiny it's in either the smallest or 2nd cog.

Bravo for you being the choir that don't have to learn how to shift. But it's too bad that you are the exception. Andy
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