Originally Posted by
JohnDThompson
The way I've replaced brazed dropouts is to cut the dropout into two pieces and sweat each piece out of its stay separately:
But what are you hoping to improve by replacing the stamped dropouts on your frame? I wouldn't fix it if it's not broken. Forged dropouts tend to be thicker than stamped dropouts, and will require widening the insertion slot. Some cast dropouts are socketed, and the stay angles may need to match those of the sockets.
Hey All seriously appreciate the replies! So I crashed the bike a few months ago., Caused the derailleur to seriously lodge it self into the spokes. Thank goodness another very kind cyclist turned all the way around riding in the opposite direction ( a rarity for sure, gos to show still some kind thoughtful people in this otherwise insane mean spirited world) Saw me carrying the bike on my shoulder and gave me a hand straightening things out enough to ride home in a single gear. (The original ARX derailleur was toast) Thanked him profusely. And made my way home. Turns out the the rear dropouts are made from some extremely tough steel, high carbon steel possibly? Had to use a good size adjustable wrench for enough leverage to straighten and align, it does shift smoothly fortunately friction shifting, tend to think index may have been more of a problem? According to a guy who used to sell Motobecane, Jubilee Sport was supposedly upper middle tier. Hence my question regarding dropout replacement . Really like this bike, think it's pretty cool vintage. just installed a pair of 60.00 Schwalbe Marathon + tires these tires completely transformed the ride quality, waiting on a pair of Campy Chorus monoplaner calipers.