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Old 02-22-25 | 09:01 PM
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79pmooney
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Joined: Oct 2014
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From: Portland, OR

Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder

All my saddles are nose down to varying degrees. All also twisted most of a a centimeter at the nose to the left. The tilt gets dialed in to exactly the best compromise over several rides. All my seatposts are 2-bolt posts requiring Allen wrenches so that is easy.

My approach to fit is that I find first a seat position, reach and drop to the bars that work. I then rotate that entire position (including saddle tilt) forward or back to get a racier, more streamlined position or more upright, laid back position. (Fix gears and race bikes = the most extreme, city bikes the most laid back. But all positions work very well for reach and deep breathing and are all good fits for going uphill.)

And no, not all my saddles and setups are completely slide free. I can ride all of them without issue no-hands and I pay real attention to the details of brake lever type and placement and handlebar shape and rotation. (Bikes get ridden without handlebar tape until I know my brake locations are close. Then it's cloth tape wrapped from the bottom so I only have to unwrap half to move the levers.) Part of the reason for this is I fully expect to be putting real weight on my hands. (Now, if I could just find those twenty year old quads and get them re-installed, I could ride at 20+ and take weight of my hands with the pedaling torque.)
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