I would think that regardless of the type of saddle (Brooks B17, C17, pancake flat Fizik/Selle, etc.), the location where your sit bones are on the saddle, that specific area of the saddle, should be close to flat (level to the ground).

I’ll go ahead and assume I’m wrong, but would like to read more about this…

In the end I always adjust the tilt to a position where I’m not sliding forward (or back), with minimal pressure on my hands. But I’m curious as to the body geometry/science.

I prefer saddles that cradle the area around the sit bones. I also like a generous cut out, my favorite saddle has both of these attributes and is the Selle Italia SLR boost.

As far as tilt, I think most bike fitters would probably lose their minds at my set up. I tilt mine forward up to a few degrees(depending on the bike.) I don't see it as an issue as I spend the vast majority of my riding time going uphill, so having the saddle pre-rotated a bit, actually feels completely natural. Humblebrag, but I also ride with enough power, that my legs contribute significantly to keeping pressure off the bars.

IMO, tilting the saddle to correct sliding in the saddle is wrong. Or at least the last thing that one should resort to. The fact your butt is sliding is telling you that for the other positions you have set on the bike, that is where your butt wants to and should be. Not that you necessarily have the other positions such as reach to the bars and saddle setback correct.

The Kontact saddle works very well with a few degrees of nose down tilt because the rear of the saddle is just flexible enough to slightly "cup" the pelvic bones. This effectively makes a flat spot where you weight is concentrated.


I do know riders who have a strong preference for saddles the angle down to the sides, like a horse saddle.

So I would not say there is one rule. Especially when you look at some of the weirder saddle designs, like SMP.

All my saddles are nose down to varying degrees. All also twisted most of a a centimeter at the nose to the left. The tilt gets dialed in to exactly the best compromise over several rides. All my seatposts are 2-bolt posts requiring Allen wrenches so that is easy.

My approach to fit is that I find first a seat position, reach and drop to the bars that work. I then rotate that entire position (including saddle tilt) forward or back to get a racier, more streamlined position or more upright, laid back position. (Fix gears and race bikes = the most extreme, city bikes the most laid back. But all positions work very well for reach and deep breathing and are all good fits for going uphill.)

And no, not all my saddles and setups are completely slide free. I can ride all of them without issue no-hands and I pay real attention to the details of brake lever type and placement and handlebar shape and rotation. (Bikes get ridden without handlebar tape until I know my brake locations are close. Then it's cloth tape wrapped from the bottom so I only have to unwrap half to move the levers.) Part of the reason for this is I fully expect to be putting real weight on my hands. (Now, if I could just find those twenty year old quads and get them re-installed, I could ride at 20+ and take weight of my hands with the pedaling torque.)

Discussing saddles before understanding the rider's riding style is almost pointless. Upright vs forward aggressive = saddles are different. Does one sit relaxed touring style or often 'on the rivet' for 'time trial' positioning? Bend your back or roll your hips?


Anyway - carry on with the best saddle design conversation.

I've found that with SMP's (the best saddle shape for mirroring the pelvic bones btw) tilt correlates pretty directly with riding position. I have my SMP's tilted slightly nose up since my riding positions aren't all that aggressive and that's just how my pelvis is rotated when riding those positions. If I were to lower my bars significantly I'd also need to tilt the saddle down.

With flat saddles having the saddle level is a good starting point. I'd be more suspicious of nose down rather than nose up since that would indicate that the saddle shape is wrong or the nose is too narrow. Ideally the saddle shape should be such that when rotating the pelvis forward, the saddle and nose should support the pubic rami pretty far up the saddle. If there's only one sweet spot which allows for no nose contact, the shape isn't good.

The Kontact saddle is designed to be nose low because a narrow nose is an excellent feature, but not one that works with a cutout. Instead you just sit on the back of the saddle and the nose normally is just there for steering.

I used to struggle with sliding forward on level saddles. Lowering my seat height fixed that for me. Something to try.

When my saddle was too high, it seemed like no saddle was ideal for me. Now that it's lower, most saddles work for me.

I like my saddles pretty flat along their length. When they have a bit of a whale tale on the back, I feel as though I'm sliding forward when I sit upright. Mildly annoying on the road; super annoying on my trainer.

Saddles that I currently enjoy that are fairly flat:

- Selle Italia Max SLR.

- Ergon road (trainer favorite).

- Fizik Vento Antares.

Most people think of their sit bones as the two pointy spots that suffer first while sitting on a hard surface. But if you follow those points forward, they become the ischial tuberosities, the loops of bone at the bottom of the pelvis. The genius of SMP saddles, and the reason for their four patents, is the spreading of pressure all along their length underneath. Same weight over a larger area equals less pressure.

IMO, seats with great big holes in them are the biggest improvement in cycling since the '70s.

A quick correction:

Ischial tuberosities are the two pointy bits. The loops at the bottom of the pelvis are the pubic rami (or ramus)

While I can largely agree with this statement, especially as aging is ‘running it’s course’ (gratefully). However, there are multiple Brooks traditionalists who have told me I butchered these and other saddles.
Makes working with a 2-bolt saddle clamp easy-peasy.

For clarification = cut-outs excellently done by a BF member, @rhm. (Haven’t checked his saddle site in years)

Same here. With my saddle at an appropriate hieight, I can sit comfortably on practically anthing, as long as it's the correct width and reasonably level. I've had Retul fitters suggest raising it a few millimeters, but I'm still in their acceptable range.

How do you guys factor in saddle-to-bar drop or rise when determine the ideal saddle tilt, or do you? My bikes have a bit a drop from the saddle to bar. I'm thinking of playing with a bit of a nose down tilt - like a degree or two. Any warnings?
(The camera making is that the saddle already look nose-down - it's level)

Some have a lot of drop due to long arms. But if you are craning to get down that low, no saddle adjustment is going fix the problem. Eventually you will scoot forward and put your weight on the bars.

Don't just ride for a hour or so and pronounce it good. It's the 45 plus or more miles mark that issues of fit will usually show themselves. Things that we perceive for just short rides sometimes we deem bad or good just simply because they feel different. The distance of your occasional long ride will be the true telling.

I've ridden various brands/styles of saddles over the decades. Don't think any were adjusted just the same. I start with them parallel to the ground and use the heel on pedal with leg straight as a start. Then for a week or two, carry a hex and adjust forward/back, tilt, and height until I find the "sweet spot".