I got a #6 bolt but unable to confirm whether it's the correct thread because the M3 threads have been forced into the pin hole. The pin is stuck to the cam cylinder and cannot be removed without cutting off the latch. I assume the repetitive opening closing of the latch and the bending of the frame has caused the pin to fuse or corrode between dissimilar materials, or it's bent. So I'll just leave the pin alone.

The purpose of the pin isn't to hold the hinge together but to transfer the torque from the lever and the cam cylinder to the clamp.

I've added the lost shims back to the two halves of the hinge plates. Instead of the old 0.6 and 0.4, I used 0.5 and 0.3mm. I've also added some shims to the pivot pin side to to try padding out any play.

I reduced the thickness of the shims because the repetitive opening closing of the latch, have worn down the aluminum surface by around 0.2 mm. This would theoretically cause the front and rear wheels to misalign by 10mm.

So now there is a total of 0.1 mm gap between the aluminum surface and the 13 mm block on the clamp. The two surfaces are not parallel anymore by around 0.1mm, probably due to the rocking wearing down the aluminum material when the old shims were removed, which I guess is how the original design was supposed to perform.




I also sanded down the divots or ridges that was formed by the repetitive opening and closing of the latch.

The old shims were made of bronze but the new ones are stainless steel. However I've used shims that are made up of stacked layers of 0.5 mm sheets that you peel off to reduce the thickness. That's probably weaker than a single homogenous sheet so I'm not sure if it would deform or thin out over time.