I've always been surprised that my "jump on the pedals" method for removing AND securing crankarms wasn't included in the operating instructions for self-extracting cranks.
Nutted bottom brackets especially are easily damaged when trying for full/adequate tightness in one swoop of tightening, because the spindle's threaded stud metal isn't tough like the threads on a real bolt are (probably why the nut and stud are 10mm instead of 8mm?). So I always re-tighten these after a good jump (and reverse jump) on the pedals!!! The coarser threads of a nutted spindle already require much greater wrench torque to achieve any particular level of tension against the crankarm versus a regular, fine-threaded crankarm bolt, so tightening in two stages is just about mandatory if a solid attachment is desired! The serrated integral washer on the nut (as well as the larger frictional diameter of the threads!) are both further contributing to the need for additional tightening efforts, which is likely why the nuts got their added one-way serrations added to their integral washer.

I've used a similar method for removing stubborn cotters, applying a cotter press and then jumping on the cranks, repeating as needed. Has spared me having to locate precious original cotters (made of hardened material) in the size I needed after bending a cotter's threaded stud.

Oh, and in a similar sort of way, I get headset top nuts tighter (or looser) without using excessive (damaging) wrench force, simply by repositioning the wrench on a different set of flats (a couple of times) during the tightening or loosening process. I found loooong ago that I had to do this in order to keep the keyed reflector bracket and/or cable hanger from trying to rotate along with the nut, turning it off-center and possibly damaging it's key and the key-way (there was "like" no other way). I can thus use my other hand/palm to easily hold the bracket/hanger from turning as long as the nut's bottom surface and better yet washer is greased. I do use an elbow against the bar and/or a knee against the front tire to assist with the application of needed resisting force.

Lastly (whew), on the subject of sufficient tightening, I "pre-adjust" a bottom bracket's adjustable cup so that, upon final tightening, the lock ring and cup can be made to rotate together into a desired adjustment, which keeps things from later loosening by having the greater width of cup threads in the shell moving while under maximum tension/force, so as to better settle the thread engagement against the usual rusting, paint and particulate surface irregularity that tends to invade these threads.