hack

The recommended pads are Reynolds pads (Reynolds rims and all...). That's all I've used, so not sure about ENVE.

KingShakes

I have a pair of HED Jet 6 Plus Alloy Clinchers that are my current race wheels. I have a ridiculous hookup on ENVE equipment, so I was thinking of picking up SES 4.5's. Debating Tubular vs. Clincher. HED would become my training wheels. Thinking tubular might be worth it, as I will be switching brake pads for race day anyway, and likely not riding them much at all for non races. Or should I go clincher and make them my all time wheel if I'm only racing 15 times a year?

Further complicating is that I want to get a new bike next year with disc brakes, but I guess I can just sell these and get a disc version when the time comes.

revchuck 

I'm seriously considering going back to aluminum rims on my main bike. I've already done that with my non-main bike. I just came back from a week in Tucson, and the braking was okay (not wonderful) on the descents with the Boyd/SwissStop Black Prince combination. I went on a recovery ride that was half in the rain yesterday and coming to a stop sign in the rain, the bike treating my pulling back on the brake levers as a suggestion to be considered in due time. I've about had it with that.

I'm considering HED Belgium Plus rims since they also allow going tubeless. I'm in no rush, so I'm open to suggestions.

mike868y

i would also recommend h plus son and/or pacenti. i train on h plus son and they've held up incredibly well (about 1.5 years of heavy use and still perfectly true).

Ygduf

no offense, but I feel like you are incapable of putting rims through heavy use.

gsteinb

Spoken from a west coast perspective. You have no idea how bad the roads in the northeast are.

topflightpro

I'd also suggest looking at the Kinlin 22T. They are a lot like the Hed Belgium Plus or the Pacenti, but a lot cheaper - about a third of the price of the Heds and half the Pacentis.

I went with the Kinlin's last summer when I got hit by a car and had to have my rear wheel re-built. I had the front re-done too. This is the third time I've gone with Kinlin rims, and I have been very happy with them, though I have not tried to set them up tubeless yet.

mike868y

idk i trashed a lot of rims before getting these

Ygduf

I'm from MN. And bear in mind that out here it's so densely populated we ride out where they will give us permits. No one cares about those roads.

But my point was only that Mike is of a smaller build. fwiw, I had h+son rims as well but I didn't find them as indestructible. My extra 60lbs likely contributed.

Ygduf

I believe you. I just had a slightly different experience with h+ son rims. With everything wheel-related though, probably 90% of it is due to how well they were originally built/tensioned.

I much prefer 40-60mm carbon wheels as everyday wheels now. The price isn't exceptionally different from HEDs aluminum or anything of that level and IME the carbon rims are holding up. I've ridden my racerims at Copperopolis 3 times now, with literally zero upkeep since I took them out of the box.

himespau 

I thought long and hard about going with the Kinlin XR31T for the next set of wheels I'm going to build up (I've had good luck with the XC279 if you don't mind the weight) in large part due to the offset option in the rear, but decided to just go with the tried and true pacenti and shed a little weight at the expense of depth if I was going to have to deal with the super narrow brake track in either case.

cb3

Love my h plus son wheels. Even raced them to some success after having a few broken spokes and some tension issues on my race wheels.

revchuck 

It's done. Rear rim (which I'll build up with a Powertap G3 hub I have) and complete front wheel ordered from HED through the LBS where I work.

Now I need to figure out which tires to go with. I'm going tubeless; the 25mm IRC Roadlites on my Ultegra wheels measure 27mm on the 21mm-wide rims. I'm thinking about S-Works Turbos, and am afraid the 26s might be too wide. Anyone have experience with tubeless tires on rims this wide?

beatlebee 

On my Pacenti 23s, IRC 25s measure at 28. It noticeably affected the handling in a negative way. I went back to 23 mm, which measured at 25 mm and steering improved.

himespau 

negatively affecting handling? That's something I haven't heard before about going wider.

hack

The first time I went to 25s was when I was using Mavic Kysrium Elites (like 17mm wide at the brake track) and it felt like the tire was going to fold over in every turn I took. I just didn't like it. I've since started using a much wider wheel (25mm) and run 25 Conti GPs without worry.

jsk

I'm running the S-Works Turbo Tubeless 26mm tires on my 2016 Boyd carbon clinchers (19mm internal width). The actual width of the tires measures a bit over 28mm. They fit on my Cervelo S3, but I definitely couldn't go any wider. They're nice tires, although I think they're overpriced now that there are other high-performance tubeless tires coming on the market (Schwalbe Pro One and Vittoria Corsa Speed G+ come to mind).

beatlebee 

On descending the local mountain back in the fall, it felt as though I was fighting the bike to turn. It was subtle but definitely noticeable. I thought something was wrong, but wasn't sure what it was. I can't remember why but I thought to just try switching out to 23 mms and it was fixed. YMMV and MIC

revchuck 

This is good info. The Belgium Plus rims are 21mm internally. I put a pair of the 24mm Turbo Tubeless in the cart at work; my guess is that they'll come out at ~26mm when mounted, which is about what I'm looking for. Besides, the 26mm versions are out of stock.

jsk

Yeah those HED rims really change the width of tires. I have JET+ wheels on my TT bike (also 21mm internal width). The "23mm" Schwalbe Pro One tubeless measure a little over 27mm, really glad I didn't get those in 25mm.

burger0014

Any tips for brake set up on the racerims? Wet or dry they squeal like crazy and braking performance doesn't seem great so I'm hoping it's a set up issue.

Ygduf

I've not had an issue. Used reynolds blue, yellow, and swiss stop black prince pads. Squeel is usually shudder caused by the heel of the pad being in. put a folded business card or something under the heel of the pad when adjusting it to toe the brake in.

burger0014

that worked, still some squealing from the year but not bad. Not sure what I was thinking when I was setting them up the first time.

dvdslw

One thing that's worked for me having the same rear squeal is to let off the brakes as soon as I hear the noise and quickly re-apply the brakes but concentrate on applying a bit more braking power to the front wheel. Apparently I've been applying more to the rear which makes the rear pads heat up faster. I also clean the pads and braking surface of my rims with alcohol when I notice the braking surface getting too shiny, seems to help.

revchuck 

Just a follow-up - after having been mounted and inflated for about three weeks, these tires measure about 27mm wide on these rims.