I'm having problems with funky shifting on one of my bikes. I bought the drivetrain and shifters (DA 7800) used from a couple of different people, so I don't know how many miles are on the parts. Recently I was able to adjust the rear shifting to work correctly only in either direction but not both. Alternately, I could get it to shift correctly on the outside and inside three cogs, but not the middle four. I replaced the RD with a new 5700 short cage one (it's my rain bike ), no change. I thought that maybe the cable was hanging up somewhere so I replaced it, no dice. I had previously straightened the derailleur hanger and checked it again today, it's fine.

Might it be that the shifter is worn out? If not, what else might it be?

Is the head of the cable seated properly and going through all the right mech in the shifter? I threaded mine through just oh so slightly wrong on one of my red shifters once and it made life miserable. Not sure if that can happen on shimano stuffs.

The nice thing about that generation of Shimano shifters is that it's a straight shot from where the cable end seats right out the side of the shifter. It's hard to screw up, even for me.

bent derailleur hanger?

Nope, double-checked that with the appropriate Park Tool tool.

The frame repair guy has repaired my frame. He also stripped it down and now he's asking me what color to paint it.

Since I had basically written off this frame for dead before I discovered it could be repaired, I sort of feel like the frame is on stoppage time and I am inclined to treat it like Shaun treated his undead buddy Ed, and fully embrace the ugliness. I don't want to paint it, I want it to just look like an ugly patchwork of raw carbon.

Is it bad to leave the carbon totally uncoated, not even a clear coat? Hazardous, or prone to minor damage becoming major, or UV degradation or whatever?

UV for sure

Have it painted flat grey, so when you get caught in the rain and your chain lube washes onto your chain stay nobody will be able to tell how dirty it is.

I just got a repair back and just had them do the most basic paint over the repair area (UV protecting clear coat I guess). This will just be a thrasher bike, so no need to pretty it up.

I say go super bright. Neon green or orange. That way people will always know it's you.

[MENTION=99188]tetonrider[/MENTION] what is the bar setup you had at nats, and how do the brakes even work? pictures are mystifying.

GC

Whered you find that picture of my uniform?!

The New Orleans Bike Club actually has a subgroup with that as a jersey design. It's known as the Bovine Paceline.

Two things come to mind

1) Your cassette needs replacement
2) Your cables need replacement

Could be one, or both. I have found that once a cassette begins to have trouble going either up, or down smoothly, then that means it is getting to be ready to change it.

I think the cassette is in good shape, but changing it out won't hurt anything. Thanks for the idea.

The third thing is 7800 specific. The grease in the mech gets old and dirty and can cause erratic operation. Dump a half a can of WD-40 into each one, flushing out all the garbage. You can add a little spray white lube after it dries out if you want.

WD-40 added to shopping list.

Need some help with an upgrade.

I just upgraded my wheels to some lighterwheight 55mm carbon with aluminum breaking surface, not super light, but aero advantage and good for riding regularly.

My issue is that my I have a G3 Powertap Rear Wheel, and would like to always have power, so I would like to upgrade to a crank based power meter. My issue is that I have a BB30 with a Specialized Carbon crank, and that basically means I need to completely upgrade my crank correct? My goal is to sell my PowerTap wheel and use that to buy the crank based PM, but with having BB30, that is making things difficult.

Any advice?

Just replace the spider:

https://www.quarq.com/store/item/1710/
Specialized power meter Type S | Power2Max North America

or get an SRM

SRM PowerMeter Specialized S-Works Road

or get pedal power

Garmin | Vector
https://www.powertap.com/page/pedals

Check Powertap's website and see if their crank-based power meter will work with your crankset. If it will (and if it's available now, I'm not sure) it's probably the least expensive way to get crank-based power.

Power2Max, Quarq, and SRM all make power meter spiders for Specialized cranks. Power2Max just dropped their prices, too, I think.

Either my Rival 10spd stuff is entirely worn out or it's no longer adequate for my needs. The only thing that hasn't been replace this year is the rear derailleur so I may have outgrown it. Talk Sram 11spd. How's the shifting compare to 10spd stuff? Anyone got hands on experience switching their drivetrain over?

He's using the USE. The levers come out of the pods.

Agree, just replace the spider.

I picked up a Cannondale SRM spider used not too long ago for $550 - including new 11-speed chainrings. My wife has the Specialized Quarq on her bike - Specialized Bicycle Components. Teton may be able to get you a deal on an SRM.

That said, the cost of the Power2Max at $740 seems like a solid deal.