Synchro shifting?

This technology allows you to shift to higher or lower gears with your right hand shifter and both front and rear derailleurs will operate to optimise chainline. It will also automatically shift the rear mech when you change from the large ring to the inner ring to maintain smoothness.

googled

That's a long winded way of saying that it shifts the FD and/or RD to progressively step through the gears in ascending or descending order.

there is a newer version that is about to be released, but it is pretty marginal in terms of improvements.

arguably the biggest feature ("synchro-shift," which has been a staple of their MTB di2 group for a few years, for those few MTBers left who use a front derailleur... ;-)) is actually going to come to 6870/9070 via a firmware update.

keep in mind one will need bars that allow wires to enter at the shifters and exit near the stem/bar interface.

the only trouble is that some people need/want on-the-fly adjustability (and want to see if it is in adjust mode). the under-the-saddle mount eliminates this -- or at least makes it tougher.

coming to 6870 & 9070 via firmware update. not clear if the new battery will be required, though.

Yea, well, for this forum, speed is what [should] matters most. You know we have 4 of these setups at our house. This is the cleanest and fastest.

Stage races might be different as you need to adjust to a random spare - maybe. Otherwise, tune it before you race it.

I don't believe it. There is still this belief that a 44X11 is as good as a 56X14. It just ain't so.

if we were in a TT forum, i'd agree 100%!

but this is more general road racing. getting a neutral wheel that may not shift properly & need to be adjusted on the fly is a possibility in racing.

improper shifting could be slower than a stem-mounted A-junction.

just as i'm about to take off my stupid bb30 bearings to put in the adapter that could convert the frame into BSA, I find out that my frame's bb shell is butted... so now, I'm going to have to to with wheels mfg outboard..

only thing i don't like about cannondale, is the stupid pressfit trend that they started.

IIRC, Klein did it first.

As for electronic, I'm waiting for eTap. Currently, it's not available for employee purchase. I'm waiting for that availability.

what's the employee price?

Can't help the see part, but in practice it is just push the button 3 sec and then adjust while riding. You know you are in that mode because of the RD movement so seeing the red light or not would not matter. Also the battery indicator would not be showing, so you'd have to be one of those that does not need to see a low battery indicator light to know you have a low battery.

If outboard means wider bearing spacing - that is a good thing, all else still working.

I was vague on stage racing in my post you commented on...
In general on single day races junior does, if there is a flat, the race is over. Your point about adjustment, I agreed with which is why I mentioned stage races.
But he's been using and adjusting with no issues while riding, so I'm not sure the SR thing/spare wheel even matters.

Before I gave up and bought online, I had it ordered through a local shop.
I watched them while they set up the order in QBP, the shop price was around $1100. List price is $1660. (for upgrade group)
Not sure if you can infer employee pricing from that, but there ya go.

You really don't need to see it to use the adjust mode.

which is why i wrote this:


improved aerodynamics seems likely (and very small) but untested. reduced usability has to be weighed against this.

my point is that any reduction in usability may offset the (very) small gains in aerodynamics. it doesn't take many seconds of having to sit upright and hold down buttons for a few seconds longer to make sure its in/out of adjust mode when you can't see it to offset those gains.

now, if it's an all-out TT...

all marketing jargon if you ask me. I care more about cross compatibility between my bikes.

I had the exact issue with my CAADX. Praxis didn't work so we had to use Wheels Mfg.

why didn't praxis work? because it's too fat in the middle

but I'm glad to know that mfg works, bucause i already placed the order..

While marketers tend to market what they can, that is a separate issue from what works better.
Wider bearings (all else being the same) always work better. It is just the ratios of lever arms - not marketing.

better how?

Just like a 52X13 is less stress, less energy loss than a 44X11.

The bearing width is 58 c-c OR outbound 78 c-c.

Not dealing with units - just ratios, a stance width (https://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Stance_Width_2562.html) of 150stance width / 58 bearing c-c = 2.6 vs 150stance width / 78bearing c-c = 1.9. Or over 30% difference in torque the BB and bearings need to deal with.
This is assuming everyone pushed straight down on pedals and ignoring all the hard twisting math dealing with crank arm lengths.

To see how much that matters you would have to know the force vector on the pedals and crank length, but the ratios are going to be the same. Tooling along I doubt it would be noticed. In a sprint, it is just one more thing to eliminate/reduce. So yea - I always spend the money to add outboard bearings (and bigger rings) - any brand - it is just better.

It was a tad too wide on the edges.

But you can't ignore the hard twisting math. Minimizing that twisting is the whole point of BB's like BB30. Make the bearing and bearing shell (frame area) as large as practicable. Make the spindle as short and as large in diameter as possible within that boundary. This minimizes twisting torque on the frame, which optimizes torque to move the bike forward.

I was commenting on part of the system. Specifically bearing pressure. And while I don't know all the forces (esp when the chain is involved) I do know that wider spacing will have less bearing pressure than narrow - ~30% less. The bottom bracket issues are the same, as are the cranks and pedals - and the spindle. I just don't see how any of that changes that the wider bearing stance means less pressure on the bearings - all else being equal.
We have several BB30 and Shimano setups. Junior started riding his S-Works with the S-Works BB30 cranks then switched to the DA - with outboard bearings. He said he noticed. Doesn't matter so much if he did, or didn't it is just one little space that is now a bit stiffer.

Everything is better now, but in the day of thin BB spindles on flexy frames - esp tandems, you could see and feel stuff twisting. I had experience with square taper Phil Wood BB (close bearings) vs a Campy, vs the later outbound Magic Motorcycle (bought by Cannondale) on my four tandems. That is where bearing placement became a big deal to me. There it could be felt and seen. Now - maybe hard to see or feel, but the principles are the same.