I'm doing a new build with di2 and was thinking about getting sprint shifters because my hands are on the smaller side and shifting in the drops isn't easy even with them adjusted in. I don't know anyone who has experience with them. Anyone tried them?

Yes—I’ve been using them for about 8 years. Satellite shifters are one of the best parts about Di2. Definitely get them!

I'll never forget riding down Alpine a year or two ago behind Aaron and he was riding right up in on the curb. A bunch of leaves and stuff was up ahead and he rode right through it. No idea what was in the pile. I was out of the bike lane entirely so as to avoid the pending crash.

Ha I ride through crap yeah, and not a princess like scheibo :lol:. Maybe a bit too un-princessy. But dammit, its a bicycle, it should be produced to be up to the task of riding through crap!

Also now I'm in SF and I have to ride through crap by nature!

I second tetonrider's comment. I have two Di2 bikes (Yes I am one of those people) and one has them, the other doesn't and I find myself missing them.

Required on any road build for my kid. He has average hands. He likes them for long out-of-the-saddle attacks where he shifts up mid sprint. Hill bike, TT bike do not have them, although might add to the TT bike for college where normal bars are required. These were the primary reason he says he wants a Di2 bike in a crit. He would use that over a newer full DA cabled team bike given the choice.

Even though I personify everything you said. It is still no excuse for being dangerously unaware of your equipment. To my eyes it was a major failing you didn't even recognize what extremely worn bearings were given the amount of mountain terrain you ride.

Should, but most often it is not. I won't recount the litany of offenses doled out in my own environment. Suffice to say I'm equally proficient at inspecting and replacing as I am at knowing when something isn't working during a ride. I'd suggest a set of narrow (pre-wide) Campy Eurus if you are having issues with rims denting and bearings wearing out. Alternately ask GC what he used to use for training wheels before he started using a disc CX bike.

Sprint shifters it is! Thanks for the feedback.

honestly, who just even drives their car over **** in the road when it's possible to avoid it?

I won't defend actions I wasn't witness to. Up here you just pray whoever is on the front subtly steers the group on a decent line through the potholes and swerves the group wide around large holes. As such I tend to treat my road bikes as a light duty mtb on and off road.

Meaning I treat piles of leaves seriously as they can easily disguise large branches or who knows what. Numerous times in the last week I have acknowledged this decision as prudent and mentally patted myself on the back for recognizing the threat. Because I ride in such poor conditions I'm very aware of exactly what I am actually riding over/through/into as it can be very bad news.

rear derailleur broke this afternoon on the ride. I assumed it was the cable, but when I pulled the cable out the entire thing was fine. It was just a derailleur spring.

Anyway, **** it, I am going to just move that bike to etap and everything will be 11 speed now.

I posted elsewhere but I laughed a bit at this txt from junior.
Just is is so true. For some applications carbon is worth the extra weight.
Attachment 584145

He meant wheels, right?

No. Post.
Could be many parts. Well machined alloy parts are typically lighter than the carbon ones. He knows this from stuff around here - post, stem, hubs, RD, FD and crank that there are no carbon parts as light - brakes - eh...close, the carbon @140g are not as good as the alloy @175g, but they are lighter.
Bars, frame - carbon will do.

I have some alloy rims that are special, but I think the ax carbon rims beat them. When it comes to spokes - nothing I've purchased beats steel.

Some materials work better for some parts.

not so sure about a lighter-than-carbon stem or post for off-road use. what are you using?

what aluminum cranks -- all-in -- are less than specialized carbon cranks?

I think the Cannondale SISL2 with Spider ring weigh less than Specialized.

Extralite stuff. Stem ~90g Post ~100g, cranks ~460g. But NOT going to use the post for off road. That was the point of the txt, and we know weight is just one factor. CF 3K weave, uni-direction, composite molded, alloy, ti, steel all act a bit differently and some suited to a use, or an activity more than others - it depends.
A side topic would be if the shock to parts is worse in on road vs off road. Hitting a hard pot hole or rock on a road bike seems as stressful on suspension parts as hitting similar in the dirt (with low inflated big tires etc.). Of course off road it is more constant.

I know good CF raw material is higher strength/weight than alloy. It was the end item - what I can buy which I find parts in alloy, ~ light. We've seen over time with several items, a non carbon component fit the need well and turned out to be lighter than the brand carbon.

I didn't weigh the Specalized ones we had (2 sets) and replaced with the 24mm which are not as light. I posted about that but I wanted steel spindle and wider bearing stance than the BB330. Anyway my wife has some old alloy cranks that are stupid light - square tapper spindle (yuk) that I expect are lighter than the Extralite, but I have not weighed them. I have a Hi-E alloy tubular rim that

These are light: QRC 2
I don't see a weight on these:https://www.specialized.com/us/en/co...nk-arms/106140

Q-Factor...I'm buying pedals and there are longer spindle options. Has anyone used/noticed the longer length spindle pedals?

If I was puppy, I'd love the idea of showing up with two or three identical boutique CX bikes. As long as you two have fun and keep up the father-son bonding.

Serious question, are you going to be working the pits for him? That can be grueling hard work trying to wrench and clean in the space of a lap.

Likely not, at least for a few years.

There is an officer (major) on their trips and if it is the same guy - he's a cycling fan and former NCAA running champ and likely best option. Parents shoot video, take pictures, find places to eat.

There's some inconsistency about what exactly is included in various advertised crank weights.

so i've been trying out the 165 cranks and I really, really like them. definitely planning on keeping them on for good.

Went from 172.5 to 165, never going back.

All-in: The weight of the BB->Rings. Might maybe add pedals in there, but as the threads are the same mostly we can leave those out.

I had the ole Dura-Ace ~80s cranks with the bearings in the threads which made things different.

I have a 'special' set of those in my closet with requisite matching pedals. Well, they are either special or someone was very good at using their machine shop to produce their own limited edition right down to the date code and artistic reproduction of Shimano's authentic engraving process.