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that's what i thought, just wanted to make sure a sram bb30 is the same as an fsa bb 30 etc.
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Yes, they are all the same spec.
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thanks for the info guys.
will i find a better deal than something like this (Full Warranty SRAM Rival 22 BB30 170mm 50 34 110mm BCD Crankset | eBay my friggin fsa sl-k is messed up again (tightening nut strips because the material is aluminum and super soft). borrowing one for the time being, but need a long term solution. |
Do you need 11 speed?
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no, but couldn't find much 10 speed stuff still available.
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Originally Posted by mike868y
(Post 17688607)
that's what i thought, just wanted to make sure a sram bb30 is the same as an fsa bb 30 etc.
Originally Posted by shovelhd
(Post 17688611)
Yes, they are all the same spec.
in the past it was sometimes impossible to get the right spacers for sram bb30 w/o buying the sram bottom bracket...just to get the 10mm spacer. they may be more readily available now. might cost you a few extra bucks. i can't speak to fSA bb30 cranks as i haven't installed any lately. |
I think I'm going to pony up and do what I've wanted to do for a while and upgrade to a shimano crank. This fsa crank has been an utter pos.
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I was pedantic too, just less detailed about it!
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True, it can take some work to get the preload right. Going to a Shimano crank in a BB30 BB is going to require adapters or a conversion BB.
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Originally Posted by mattm
(Post 17656045)
bottle cages; what are the best ones?
been using tacx tao but they always seem to break after about 8 months for me.. I've been using Bontrager Sideswipe RL side-entry cages for years on my MTBs. Never lost a bottle, on any ride or in any race. Terrain: Upstate NY, VA, NC, CO, and Lake Tahoe, CA, areas. Racing Pro/Open MTB and the requisite training for that level. The "never lost a bottle" includes several yard sales where I've taken a spill at Mach Stupid, off road, on east coast rocky trails. |
Originally Posted by shovelhd
(Post 17689175)
True, it can take some work to get the preload right. Going to a Shimano crank in a BB30 BB is going to require adapters or a conversion BB.
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Originally Posted by mike868y
(Post 17688637)
thanks for the info guys.
will i find a better deal than something like this (Full Warranty SRAM Rival 22 BB30 170mm 50 34 110mm BCD Crankset | eBay my friggin fsa sl-k is messed up again (tightening nut strips because the material is aluminum and super soft). borrowing one for the time being, but need a long term solution. |
Originally Posted by Hida Yanra
(Post 17690164)
get a praxis adaptor, get a shimano crank - BAM, dunzo for the next pile of years.
Originally Posted by Edonis13
(Post 17690212)
About a month ago I got my bb30 rival22 crank on amazon, new, for $60 shipped. (175, 52/36)
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Bike is actually pf30, not bb30. Going to get the wheels manufacturing bearings and a shimano crank.
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Originally Posted by mike868y
(Post 17688686)
no, but couldn't find much 10 speed stuff still available.
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Originally Posted by mike868y
(Post 17690287)
Bike is actually pf30, not bb30. Going to get the wheels manufacturing bearings and a shimano crank.
The expanding collet design of the Praxis set up should be more reliable. It is also self-aligning by design, so don't have to worry about alignment of the BB as much. |
Originally Posted by mike868y
(Post 17690287)
Bike is actually pf30, not bb30. Going to get the wheels manufacturing bearings and a shimano crank.
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For the BB30 guys.
I've tried sram, cannondale (which are probably endure re-branded), enduro, and currently Phil Wood bearings. All steel. I thought I'd be adventurous and got a set of Hawk Racing bearings to try out last fall. After the winter, I decided to put them in the other day to address a slight creak. Then went in fine, same as all bb30 bearings without much issue. Green Loctite between bearing and shell, RnR SuperWeb between hollowgram spindle and bearings. Re-assemble the crank and they are *very* stiff/hard to turn. Figure it's just the seal or grease used and they will break in. Go out for first ride, and the thing clicks and creaks to high hell. Super frustrated I come home and pull the crank. Both bearings have notches and are rough turning. Completely dumbfounded. They were installed same manner as all the others and I don't understand how they failed so quickly. Going to send my first frustration email to Hawk to see what they say, although I expect them the blame on user install error (not sure how to argue, I understand they can't verify they were installed correctly). |
How did you set the preload?
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Hollowgram Si crank (SRM) so non-drive side is non-adjustable shouldered spindle.
Drive Side is bearing shield, 4 plastic spacers (can use up to 5), and wavy washer. Then arm bolt tightened to 40 Nm. |
Have you tried removing one plastic spacer and retorque?
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When I reinstalled the other bearings I had, I put them in the same way and no creaking.
The Hawk bearings have very noticeable notches/grinding when turning after the short ride I did on them. |
Originally Posted by ips0803
(Post 17697292)
Strongly consider the praxis adapter. The wheels adatpers (if its the delrin cups I'm thinking of) still leave you with the bearing to frame interface issues.
The expanding collet design of the Praxis set up should be more reliable. It is also self-aligning by design, so don't have to worry about alignment of the BB as much. |
I have some barely used Reynolds carbon brake pads but they are the Campagnolo shape and my race bike is SRAM/Shimano. Is it possible to alter them to fit Shimano holders? I was thinking I could use a rat tail file on the groove. Anyone tried this?
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Originally Posted by ips0803
(Post 17698328)
When I reinstalled the other bearings I had, I put them in the same way and no creaking.
The Hawk bearings have very noticeable notches/grinding when turning after the short ride I did on them. Yes, it's worth it. You won't regret it. |
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