A+ gif. Doing the name proud!

I absolutely agree he/they wobble bikes more. I think it is coming from slower speeds / bigger acceleration vs. having a leadout train. I'm not thinking that is something to change.

Wana let me see if I can take your standard skewer tightening and get the wheel yanked out? There is a reason they don't allow skewers at the track.

If you're at Ontario next time give it a shot!

do I have to go back a million posts and research, or did you at one point say you had to clean out excess chain lube from the contact points?

True. Spillage from chain lubing. Its a junior affectation that they lube chains before every race.
There are several things and power was the least of these (@teanrider thought it important).
The skewer was a standard steel shaft skewer tightened as in the video and every other video I saw like Shimano and SRAM tighten them.
They have hardened steel plates on dropouts that angle forward a bit.
I am addressing with Specialized and so far very happy with their immediate response. I was looking for similar experience by posting here.

I feel like that Daniel is/was accidentally lubing the skewer has been very undersold in this.

I'm also pretty certain that if anyone tried to rip the wheel out of my bike while the skewer was tightened the (carbon) dropouts would be pretty damaged if/when the wheel was freed.

i would love to have a conversation with doge in real life.

I'm going to go with the detailed analysis from Stanford University.

Sadly, he's fairly normal.

I'm hoping that I won't regret sticking with a 52/36 on my race bike. That 1 tooth can't really make a noticeable difference, can it??? can it???

Nah. Let's say you take your sprint to 120 rpm and 11 tooth cog, with the 52 you're at 44.4 mph and with the 53 you're at 45.25. If you're finding you're failing at racing because your sprint is only 44.4 and not 45.25, then there are other issues.

Cool. I wish I had that problem.

I wind out my gears more on downhills trying to chase back on rather than most sprints. A flat sprint usually gets to 40-42, add a tailwind or downhill and that can do quite a bit higher. I've been thinking about going to a 54 just for the badass factor though

If it didn't work - I'd feel bad.
If it did work - that would be mean.

On a decent on a TT bike...
We found better TT times on descents coast/pedal than pedal. Obviously the junior gear made this almost a requirement and how it was discovered, but it works when he has the big gear too.
So rather than hold 120RPM say 40mph, coast in a tuck, and when you get below 39 spin back to 42 and tuck again.
The tuck is more aero and there is less total energy being spent by you.
You are spinning about 1/3 the time and your legs are stronger and fresher.
The 42->39 is a better average speed than holding 40.

You don't need to use a Miche cassette to make 11sp work sometimes with 10sp. Use any Shimano 11sp cassette and pull the 16T. No spacer needed. Ymmv. It's not a perfect solution.

So what I did on the wheel pop-out thing. I have ongoing communication with other channels, but I think this will work well. I have pictures, but I'll describe it...

-New procedure with Junior will ensure no oil gets in face between hub and axel
-New procedure to ensure a bit beyond "normal" tightness of skewer
-NOT using lock washers.
-Removed steel plate on inside cassette side. I may remove all of them. Waiting to hear from Specialized.
-Ground dropout inside to a hook so wheel under no clamp does not come out. Then moved wheel forward about 1mm.
My prior test where wheel pops - it is in there solid.

Popped these out.

No - for chain alignment.

The S Bends on my Speed Concept are too low, my wrists still hurts after just an hour ride. Going to look into getting Ski Bends; do I have to refish the whole wiring through to the derailleurs again or is there a way to pop off the R2C Shifter?

you have to rewire it. one nice thing for di2. so annoying to reachable most TT bikes, esp superbikes. (i recently made a similar change.)

That sucks since I just had it wired...

Wow, my new Ritchey 5 N*m torque key has me surprised.

those are pretty notoriously inaccurate.

I have a 4N*m Ritchey. Local bike shop commented you are better doing it by hand as you have a better feel than a wrench. Hmmm.

Rut-roh