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Originally Posted by tetonrider
(Post 17968617)
new pricing on the SRMs. i just got it yesterday.
how do you define flawless? no drop-outs or battery issues, or....gives reliable data? I like the idea of the Stages if it was, like, $300, but what bugs me is that it is not a cheap device and is 1/2 a power meter. Even putting the issues aside w/r/t situations where cadence is changing abruptly/shorter efforts, because of all our individual peculiarities power balance is not constant and their 'multiply-by-2' simplification is flawed. (That it is not constant does not matter for crank- or hub-based devices.) So, there are multiple sources of error, and for power (IME/IMO) that is not a good thing. You can't calibrate it, the variations in time/balance are non-linear, and then, of course, the standard chance of error that EVERY meter has. It's just too much, IMO, for that cost. For $250, $300 I have a different take on it, but at around a grand I go used with another device. Time will tell, but for me a device that costs 1.5-2x but lasts a decade is worth more than the device that costs x but is a paper-weight far sooner. I also have a different take if they start measuring both sides...but then I suspect we bump up the cost and longevity questions rear their head. I'm not super anal about my racing or off road data; on even smooth single track it jumps around enough that you'd have a hard time knowing what was real and what was noise. On dirt roads or paved roads, though, it's consistent. |
I don't know. I'm not sure there's value in an all or nothing approach. So when I need to replace or get an additional power meter (compact) I'd be more likely to try something a lot of people are using than just not getting anything. Ymmv
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Originally Posted by Duke of Kent
(Post 17968749)
Good points. My Stages hasn't had any dropouts or battery issues. Data reliability? Aside from some nasty rock strewn downhills where I've had some 3,000w spikes, it's been "good". If I hit Dirt Road Climb X in 10min, it says 350w damn near every time.
I'm not super anal about my racing or off road data; on even smooth single track it jumps around enough that you'd have a hard time knowing what was real and what was noise. On dirt roads or paved roads, though, it's consistent. and that's the bummer about devices that cannot be calibrated by the end user--noise on top of an unknown. |
Originally Posted by gsteinb
(Post 17968773)
I don't know. I'm not sure there's value in an all or nothing approach. So when I need to replace or get an additional power meter (compact) I'd be more likely to try something a lot of people are using than just not getting anything. Ymmv
i interpreted "move over entirely" as "I'm looking at selling all I have and buying a Stages." sorry if i read too much into it or misread it. i put my money where my mouth is, but since you brought up the money concerns i pointed out there are even cheaper ways to go about it. someone was bound to trot out the 'eddie mercx did just fine without power' element. and there is some truth to that, esp for a guy with your training experience. of course, it is difficult for your remote coach to know what the hell you're doing.... |
Aside from my head unit I really love my powertaps. The drawback is that I can't just go and buy a new wheelset, but the plus side is it keeps me from buying extra wheelsets.
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I have no interest in "what is the best X" conversations in general, but I'm just going to throw this out there. I can swap my SRAM Stages between any of 4 bikes in less than a minute. I do it several times per week. It takes less time than pumping up the tires or filling up a water bottle. I'd never buy a dedicated power meter for every bike, but it is awfully nice to always have power.
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Ive considered getting a stages for my TT bike. I can get them at a nice discount through my team shop.
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Originally Posted by globecanvas
(Post 17968841)
... can swap my SRAM Stages between any of 4 bikes in less than a minute.
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Originally Posted by globecanvas
(Post 17968841)
I can swap my SRAM Stages between any of 4 bikes in less than a minute. I do it several times per week. It takes less time than pumping up the tires or filling up a water bottle. I'd never buy a dedicated power meter for every bike, but it is awfully nice to always have power.
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Originally Posted by Doge
(Post 17968935)
How do you do this - just remove the arm?
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Originally Posted by Doge
(Post 17968935)
How do you do this - just remove the arm?
Yes, which is a single captured bolt on SRAM cranksets. |
Originally Posted by vision646
(Post 17968938)
Yep you just swap the left arm over.
Seems that left pedal gets lots of use. |
Originally Posted by tetonrider
(Post 17968725)
i think we all make a choice to be somewhere along that continuum, in any area (even shoes!). .
If I could have gotten a wide enough pair of Lake, or a wide enough and high-volume version of Bonts for 1/2 the cost I would have. I have the emails to prove it. |
Originally Posted by Doge
(Post 17968945)
Do you keep the bikes you are not riding with the left arms off?
Yes, generally, unless I expect to be moving the bike around or washing it or whatever, in which case I spin the original crankarm back on just so the crankset doesn't slide out.
Originally Posted by Doge
(Post 17968945)
Seems that left pedal gets lots of use.
True. Full disclosure, 2 of the bikes have MTB pedals on so depending on the swap, I might have to swap the pedal as well, which takes another 30 seconds. |
There was a time on this forum when people with feet abnormalities could come here and not worry about hate, but instead have to write 2 paragraphs to justify shoe purchases!
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Originally Posted by Doge
(Post 17968945)
Do you keep the bikes you are not riding with the left arms off?
Seems that left pedal gets lots of use. |
Originally Posted by furiousferret
(Post 17968964)
There was a time on this forum when people with feet abnormalities could come here and not worry about hate, but instead have to write 2 paragraphs to justify shoe purchases!
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Originally Posted by Doge
(Post 17968935)
How do you do this - just remove the arm?
Took my 170mm Hollowgram crank arm off my MTB, put it on my road bike. In theory, I don't even need the SRM on my road bike, but I got it for $100 more than a set of Cannondale Spiderings would have cost on eBay. Imaculate condition, too. And, I hate removing cranks on BB30 bikes once I get bearing preload dialed in. |
Originally Posted by globecanvas
(Post 17968954)
Yes, generally, unless I expect to be moving the bike around or washing it or whatever, in which case I spin the original crankarm back on just so the crankset doesn't slide out.
True. Full disclosure, 2 of the bikes have MTB pedals on so depending on the swap, I might have to swap the pedal as well, which takes another 30 seconds. maybe this is an ill fated idea. |
I got the vectors and stages.. Sold my PT.. I was concerned with L/R BALANCE after left knee surgery . Turns out my left leg does a majority of the work .. Usually 52/51 % . I was swapping wheels too often to justify the PT so it made little sense to keep it. I have been happy with my stages and vectors
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Originally Posted by tetonrider
(Post 17968797)
when you wrote this:"I'm most sick of spending huge money on my hobby. I'd actually be surprised if I didn't buy a stages soon and eventually move over entirely."
i interpreted "move over entirely" as "I'm looking at selling all I have and buying a Stages." sorry if i read too much into it or misread it. i put my money where my mouth is, but since you brought up the money concerns i pointed out there are even cheaper ways to go about it. someone was bound to trot out the 'eddie mercx did just fine without power' element. and there is some truth to that, esp for a guy with your training experience. of course, it is difficult for your remote coach to know what the hell you're doing.... |
Originally Posted by globecanvas
(Post 17968841)
I have no interest in "what is the best X" conversations in general, but I'm just going to throw this out there. I can swap my SRAM Stages between any of 4 bikes in less than a minute. I do it several times per week. It takes less time than pumping up the tires or filling up a water bottle. I'd never buy a dedicated power meter for every bike, but it is awfully nice to always have power.
funny story: a friend bought a vector ~18 months ago because he was not a very good mechanic and afraid of swapping cranks. (i get it--the SEEM mysterious.) we both flew to a stage race. as we're building bikes, i notice he has his crank off. he realized the vectors were a PITA to install and get right (for an average traveling mechanic) that he found it easier to just pull the cranks. that was before he experienced numerous issues like having a TT where 1/2 the power dropped out, etc., and dumped them. anyway.... for swaps, PT is probably the easiest but doesn't work so well between MTB & road! :) otherwise, a crank arm vs a crank is pretty much a non-existent gap for most competent mechanics. pedals seem easier (but in practice many people have trouble even with ANY pedal removal) and maybe the new ones will prove to actually be easier. 'right-tighty' fails many otherwise intelligent people w/r/t pedals, though, power aside. no road bike mechanic stuff is complex, but some is intimidating at first. kind of like installing ski bindings. |
Originally Posted by spdntrxi
(Post 17969008)
I got the vectors and stages.. Sold my PT.. I was concerned with L/R BALANCE after left knee surgery . Turns out my left leg does a majority of the work .. Usually 52/51 % . I was swapping wheels too often to justify the PT so it made little sense to keep it. I have been happy with my stages and vectors
i for sure would LIKE IT (and wish i had it pre- and post-injury, out of curiosity), but there is nothing to really do with it. 1-leg drills are not a thing that is useful for training (unless people are talking about using a counterweight, which most never seem to do). |
Originally Posted by gsteinb
(Post 17968999)
when I take the pedal off it takes me five minutes to bandage my hand from slamming it into the chain ring.
maybe this is an ill fated idea. chain in big-ring helps a bit. :) |
People should buy whatever meets their needs and use cases and budget, I'm not selling anything or saying people should get what I have because I like it.
Just to illustrate my own use case, the 4 bikes are: a road bike with compact crank, cross bike with narrow-wide single ring on 130 BCD, winter bike with single ring on 110 BCD, and single speed with frankenstein 40/42 rings on 110 BCD. 3 of the bikes have disk brake hub spacing. 2 of them use MTB pedals. As far as I know there is no other single power meter that could possibly be swapped between these bikes. That the swap can be done so easily is a bonus. Power for all 4 bikes for $600 or whatever my sponsor shop charged me is a ridiculous deal. Others will have different use cases. |
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