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Not hard, I've done it twice. One with a nice BB hole the other without anything down there. Do you have holes for derailleurs and battery if applicable? Typically there's something usable if the cables went through the frame, or even the bolt hole for cable guides.
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I'm trying to pack two TT bikes in a Tri-All-3 Box. Not easy. Some headsets don't turn 90 degrees.
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Originally Posted by Harlan
(Post 18688011)
Not hard, I've done it twice. One with a nice BB hole the other without anything down there. Do you have holes for derailleurs and battery if applicable? Typically there's something usable if the cables went through the frame, or even the bolt hole for cable guides.
I recently realized that one can run a 36t cassette using a Shimano mid cage, which would be quite nice for all my needs. |
Many internal bikes have two holes for the FD cable so one for battery and one for FD wire. Most older carbon bikes had open chain stays so you could run a wire through there. Did yours run the shifter cable through there?
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Originally Posted by Doge
(Post 18688024)
I'm trying to pack two TT bikes in a Tri-All-3 Box. Not easy. Some headsets don't turn 90 degrees.
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Originally Posted by revchuck
(Post 18688229)
Bigger hammer?
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Originally Posted by Harlan
(Post 18688143)
Many internal bikes have two holes for the FD cable so one for battery and one for FD wire. Most older carbon bikes had open chain stays so you could run a wire through there. Did yours run the shifter cable through there?
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Originally Posted by echappist
(Post 18690768)
Currently yes, a shifter cable through the chainstay, though i'll have to look to see how wide the port is. Battery would most likely be internal to preempt issues there. Only remaining issue is whether i should go with 11-speed as it would require a new hub and a new freehub body
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You can stuff the junction in the down tube by taking the fork out. Just have to run guides into the frame from below. The e tube wire is the same diameter as a cable ferrule so you'll have to drill out the stop or make a new hole. Resale is toast either way so just drill out the cable stop on the end of the chain stay. I can elaborate if needed.
I wouldn't purchase 10s di2 components at this point. Obsolete and getting more expensive to source than 11s gear. What wheels do you have? |
Hey I just remembered I have a whole 7970 (1st gen 10 speed external battery di2) group here. It is orphaned technology, it's been crashed, and I haven't even looked at it since I took it off the broken bike. I know that's quite the endorsement but [MENTION=165838]echappist[/MENTION] if you want it you can have it for the cost of shipping which would probably be like $20 tops. If any of it turns out to be useable you can send me a bottle of bourbon or something.
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Well damn. That's quite the offer. I'd be interested for mtb/hacking if you aren't. I have a busted 6770 RD to play with.
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Originally Posted by shovelhd
(Post 18690978)
You will need a hole up front for the downtube wire to A junction, a hole on the chainstay for the RD, and some way to get the internal B junction into the downtube. If your bike has a solid internal BB shell that can be challenging without the proper hole. It's in the 12mm-15mm range (don't make me measure my Felt).
Originally Posted by Harlan
(Post 18691044)
You can stuff the junction in the down tube by taking the fork out. Just have to run guides into the frame from below. The e tube wire is the same diameter as a cable ferrule so you'll have to drill out the stop or make a new hole. Resale is toast either way so just drill out the cable stop on the end of the chain stay. I can elaborate if needed.
I wouldn't purchase 10s di2 components at this point. Obsolete and getting more expensive to source than 11s gear. What wheels do you have? As for my own wheel, a CK R45 needs to be converted (I think the cost is in the $200 range), and my 303 rear doesn't do 10 speed.
Originally Posted by globecanvas
(Post 18691087)
Hey I just remembered I have a whole 7970 (1st gen 10 speed external battery di2) group here. It is orphaned technology, it's been crashed, and I haven't even looked at it since I took it off the broken bike. I know that's quite the endorsement but @echappist if you want it you can have it for the cost of shipping which would probably be like $20 tops. If any of it turns out to be useable you can send me a bottle of bourbon or something.
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Originally Posted by globecanvas
(Post 18691087)
hey i just remembered i have a whole 7970 (1st gen 10 speed external battery di2) group here. It is orphaned technology, it's been crashed, and i haven't even looked at it since i took it off the broken bike. I know that's quite the endorsement but @echappist if you want it you can have it for the cost of shipping which would probably be like $20 tops. If any of it turns out to be useable you can send me a bottle of bourbon or something.
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Originally Posted by globecanvas
(Post 18691087)
Hey I just remembered I have a whole 7970 (1st gen 10 speed external battery di2) group here. It is orphaned technology, it's been crashed, and I haven't even looked at it since I took it off the broken bike. I know that's quite the endorsement but @echappist if you want it you can have it for the cost of shipping which would probably be like $20 tops. If any of it turns out to be useable you can send me a bottle of bourbon or something.
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Originally Posted by shovelhd
(Post 18692295)
That stuff will sell on ST. I still get inquiries about my 7970 stuff I sold over a year ago.
I did pull it out of the crate to look at it again. One shifter and the RD are scuffed up from the crash but it all looks more or less intact. I just hate to sell stuff that has been crashed, and I don't really want to set it all up again to verify that it's working properly. |
Originally Posted by globecanvas
(Post 18692300)
I did pull it out of the crate to look at it again. One shifter and the RD are scuffed up from the crash but it all looks more or less intact. I just hate to sell stuff that has been crashed, and I don't really want to set it all up again to verify that it's working properly.
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Originally Posted by globecanvas
(Post 18692300)
I did pull it out of the crate to look at it again. One shifter and the RD are scuffed up from the crash but it all looks more or less intact. I just hate to sell stuff that has been crashed, and I don't really want to set it all up again to verify that it's working properly.
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It seems I opened up a can of charity worms :(
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Haha don't feel committed to giving stuff away, sell it if you want.
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Forget the Di2, I'll take the can of worms if nobody else wants them.
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If im using the friction shifting on my TT bike (I almost never set them to indexed), is there anything preventing me from using an 11 speed wheel with the 10 speed shifters? Eventually I want to get some aero wheels for my caad12, and it would be pretty awesome if I could also use the rear on the TT bike...anyone try this?
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Originally Posted by Wylde06
(Post 18692537)
If im using the friction shifting on my TT bike (I almost never set them to indexed), is there anything preventing me from using an 11 speed wheel with the 10 speed shifters? Eventually I want to get some aero wheels for my caad12, and it would be pretty awesome if I could also use the rear on the TT bike...anyone try this?
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I have the hardest time finding shoes that fit my wide feet. Bontragers used to fit but they changed their design a few years ago and they don't fit any more. Specialized and Sidi wide sizes are not wide enough. The last week I have been wearing out the UPS guy by mail ordering just about every shoe in the world and returning it. I finally got a pair of Lake wide shoes. They are expensive, even though they are two levels below the top Lake shoe which is probably the most expensive shoe ever. But holy cow are these nice shoes, like the holy grail of shoes.
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Shoes are a PITA. Took me a loooong time to get good ones - I have low arches, high mobility (basically my feet are loose-ligamented and really floppy), long toes and low volume feet. For me the Specialized shoes are working out very well, though I should probably change out the footbeds at some point. I just hope they keep making shoes that work for me, cause hunting for good ones sucks.
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I found a pair of shoes I liked back in the day (in my bin of shoes). The two things were the upper is super adjustable and super tighten-able (three straps, one goes around the back of the heel). It's also super light.
Finally it's a modular shoe, meaning the sole is carbon/kevlar and can be removed, leaving the shell of the shoe intact. The thing I didn't like about the shoes was that the sole wasn't quite right, was too flat. I stuck the insoles I use in there but they make the sole just a bit too thick for the shell, it doesn't quite work. Now I'm thinking that maybe I'll cut up an old Sidi shoe, which I love, make a (slightly thinner) mold with my insole, which I love, and insert said new sole into the shoe I like. |
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