Originally Posted by
shecky
Sort of. Flaring happens when the cutting wheel displaces the metal as it cuts through, unlike a saw, which removes metal chip by chip, about the width of the saw teeth. Pipe cutters don't remove metal, simply deform it with a hard, thin, circular rolling knife-like blade. I find a file (or grinder or belt sander or deburring tool) is usually necessary to fix the sharp edge left by a pipe cutter, which is on the inside of the tubing when using a pipe cutter. Some materials will actually flare out a bit, aluminum may be more prone to this IME. I think it may have to do with the softness and the thickness of the tube wall which affects this. Steel (and copper, FWIW) tends to end up with a slightly smaller O.D. at the cut area, with perhaps a much smaller flare. In any event, a file or powered tool will take care of it.
Pipe cutters work well. Just go slow and becareful that the cutting wheel doesn't "walk" out of your previously cut groove. The inside burr can be a pain to clean up.
Hack saws without a guide can work fine, but only if you are good with a saw. Personally, when ever I use a handsaw freehand my cuts are always crooked. The RIGHT way to do it is to use a guide that clamps onto the bar. The saw blade is in this guide and your cut will be perpendicular to the pipe. A mitre saw also works very well if you can clamp the pipe in place somehow.