If you want light wheels, forget about using a track front hub...they are boat anchors. My track wheelset consists of a formula rear hub (28 hole) and a Perception front road hub (24 hole) (with bolt-on skewer), which also happens to be made by formula. Rims are Niobium 30s with cxray spokes. Total weight is about 1550 grams. The Perception hub is a light, low-cost, smooth hub that is as nice as a White Industries front road hub, which I also have. However, you can only lace a Perception front hub one way...radial with the heads out. Thats fine with me, but look elsewhere if you don't like the aesthetics of radial laced wheels.

Light rims are nice, but having a slightly more aero rim has greater benefits. The Kinlin Niobium 30 rim is about the best weight/aero/strength combo that you can buy. I've built both track and road wheelsets with them and have never had to retrue or tension them, and I'm a fairly big guy (205) who's not exactly gentle on wheels.
You'll save about 650 grams per wheel using a shallower Niobium box rim, but end up with a weaker, less aero wheel. Lightweight is most beneficial when climbing and you can't really climb much with a FG anyway, so I'd focus more on aero and only place a high priority on shaving grams when it doesn't compromise aero (e.g. light hubs).


As for spokes. Get something thats very strongly butted (2.0-1.5-2.0), and preferably ovalized...such as a CX ray...which is about the lightest, most aero, and durable steel poke you can buy. Having fewer spokes also shaves grams and is lighter. Assuming the wheel is properly built, most people can get away with way fewer than 32 spokes, especially SS and FG wheels which lack dish in the rear. I use 24-28 spoke wheelsets on road and track, but even thats overkill for a well-built, high-end wheel. A 20-24 spoke undished wheelset with deep rims is going to be plenty stiff and sufficiently durable for most people on the road and track, including myself (don't do tricks with it though!).