I just bought an old Uno Pista NJS setup. This beast is crazy light, due in part because of the super light wheelset. It came with vintage araya gold tubulars laced to dura-ace hubs. I need to build a new wheelset, so I don't have to ride these tubulars on the street, but I don't want to sacrifice much weight.

Does anyone have suggestions on a light wheel setup that could even compare to my tubulars? (I'll work on getting the weight of my set so there is something to compare them to)

Your Araya Gold rims should be around 335 grams each, plus the spokes and hubs...

The only thing I could think of that would compare would be something carbon - Or just add on another 200 grams and you're around the wight of most GOOD clincher type rims.

Light rims FTW.

Niobium rims (IRD cadence etc, google) = 390g... many roadies seem to use them bc you can build up a light and cheap wheelset with them.
Then, Aerohead (410g or more), open pro (430g)

Hubs : Formula or any light and cheap front road hub...

Edit : I assumed you want clincher rims ;-)

^
Yes I definitely want clinchers for road use, and want to keep the vintage look so NO DEEP SECTIONS

Yep, use Niobium rims and a really light road front hub (American Classic Micro 58 or Speedcific Perception, maybe?)

I've heard mixed reviews about the Niobium box rims; at one point I was seriously considering them but opted for Open Pros instead.

Don't forget the main benefit you're getting is the really light tubular tire since rotational weight matters most at the outermost area. If you want to emulate it with clincher you're going to have to run dual Pro Race 3's, Vittoria Open Corsa CX's or GP4000's...

I have IRD Cadence Niobiums laced to 28 hole custom White Industries hubs. Front radial, rear radial and 2x. Michelin Pro3 Races (like andre says) with Michelin SL tubes. Haven't had to true them yet, one year after building. They're super light and sturdy enough for my 32 mile RT commute about 4 days a week. I've hit some potholes and regularly hop curbs.

The rims are finicky to set up, but, if you are a patient and experienced wheelbuilder, there's no reason not to run them. I have a road wheelset with pretty much the same specs. They have significantly less time on them, but seem to be holding up just as well.

How do you think those White Ind. hubs? Do you have the version with the splined cog system? I'm thinking of getting those.

I'd seriously consider DT Swiss RR 1.1s - not super light weight (415g) but buttery smooth. I use them on the road and track and love them. These are my new favorite clincher rims.

He said the rear is laced radial and 2x, which means he is most likely talkiing about WI road hubs, not the new WI track hubs.

If you want light wheels, forget about using a track front hub...they are boat anchors. My track wheelset consists of a formula rear hub (28 hole) and a Perception front road hub (24 hole) (with bolt-on skewer), which also happens to be made by formula. Rims are Niobium 30s with cxray spokes. Total weight is about 1550 grams. The Perception hub is a light, low-cost, smooth hub that is as nice as a White Industries front road hub, which I also have. However, you can only lace a Perception front hub one way...radial with the heads out. Thats fine with me, but look elsewhere if you don't like the aesthetics of radial laced wheels.

Light rims are nice, but having a slightly more aero rim has greater benefits. The Kinlin Niobium 30 rim is about the best weight/aero/strength combo that you can buy. I've built both track and road wheelsets with them and have never had to retrue or tension them, and I'm a fairly big guy (205) who's not exactly gentle on wheels.
You'll save about 650 grams per wheel using a shallower Niobium box rim, but end up with a weaker, less aero wheel. Lightweight is most beneficial when climbing and you can't really climb much with a FG anyway, so I'd focus more on aero and only place a high priority on shaving grams when it doesn't compromise aero (e.g. light hubs).


As for spokes. Get something thats very strongly butted (2.0-1.5-2.0), and preferably ovalized...such as a CX ray...which is about the lightest, most aero, and durable steel poke you can buy. Having fewer spokes also shaves grams and is lighter. Assuming the wheel is properly built, most people can get away with way fewer than 32 spokes, especially SS and FG wheels which lack dish in the rear. I use 24-28 spoke wheelsets on road and track, but even thats overkill for a well-built, high-end wheel. A 20-24 spoke undished wheelset with deep rims is going to be plenty stiff and sufficiently durable for most people on the road and track, including myself (don't do tricks with it though!).

They are road hubs. H2 up front and a custom, one-off 120mm fixed/free ENO on the rear. 97g front hub, 252g rear hub. The hubs are probably my favorite for quality. The only downside is that they are cartridge bearings. My personal preference is cup-and-cone, but the cartridges roll smooth and have lasted for about 2000 miles with no problems.

Spare yourself the headache & ride those tubs on the street.

you don't save headache this way. just trade them.
he's probably not ready to deal with tubulars.

Maybe you're right. I'll post again after I flat my tubs.

ok. it probably won't be too long if you're running cheap ones.
don't even waste your money on vittoria rally (and yes i see you have giro).

You've totally inspired me. I think my next set is going to be H2 up front and White Industries track hub in the back. Do you use a bolt-on or a quick-release skewer up front? And can you lace the H2 3x? Or only radial?

I bought a set of Clement Futuras, but since the Giro's have held up nicely w/o problems, I sold them along with a set of wheels I had & will probably replace the Giros with more Giros.

The H2 can be laced any way you want.

I hear deep V's are light and really a supple ride thats why they are the best highest end rim and everyone rides them, it's a no brainer. The only reason the pro's don't use them is that you cant have colored rims on the track.

lmao.

Lol deep v's are high end rims now? Lmao. Comedy gold

As said, the H2 can be laced any which way and will be covered. I run a Delta Axelrod up front. and the rear is a bolt on type hub. I can take a pic if you want to get some idea of the overall appearance.

I would love to see your wheels, if it wouldn't be too much trouble.