1. Deeper rims are will giver you a substantially stiffer wheel both vertically and laterally. Consequently, the load cycles exerted on the spokes are less severe, and the wheel itself is stronger and more durable. Therefore its possible to use fewer spokes, gaining you further aerodynamic advantages. The increased aerodynamics of a deep-rimmed wheel have been shown to more than offset the cost of the slight weight increase of a deeper rim. You asked about an all-purpose wheelset. In the roadie world, wheels with semi-deep rims are considered the best all-purpose compromise between weight, strength, and aeroness. Shallow rims are mostly used these days for climbing wheels. Wheels with semi-deep rims are still very light, more durable, and have increased aerodynamic advantages that more than offset the minor weight increase.

2, Kinlin rims are sold under a variety of brand names and, in the roadie world, have easily supplanted OPs as the rim of choice for all-purpose aluminum clinchers. They are the lightest rims available (per rim depth), and shown to be extremely durable. Kinlin Niobium 30s are barely heavier than OPs. OPs are still around only because of the inertia of their long-held reputation. You can buy rims today that are far far better.

3. Undished (FG/SS) wheels are much stronger than heavily dished road wheels, thus allowing you to go with fewer spokes than an equivalent road bike wheel. Most FG/SS bikes are equipped with cheap machine built wheels. Because of the poor quality of the build, these wheels are overbuilt with high spoke counts and heavier rims. If the wheels are built correctly, a 24/28 spoke wheel is going to last longer than a poorly built 32 or 36 spoke wheel. Furthermore, a 2x 28 spoke rear wheel with a 30mm deep rim and high flange hub, if built properly, is going to be as durable as a 32 spoke OP, and based on my own experience and contrasting weight recommendations I have heard from various builders, it may actually be more durable.

4. Radial lacing in the front provides only marginal weight and aerodynamic advantages but it will significantly increase the lateral stiffness of the wheel. There really is no point in crossing spokes on a wheel that is not experiencing torque. The only problem with radial is the excessive radial stresses on the hub flanges, although hubs break very rarely. If you buy a hub that is rated (and warranteed) for radial lacing then I say go or it, if not, do 1x on the front.

5. I'm 205 pounds and have been hammering on a pair of 24/28 wheels with 30mm Kinlin rims, cxray spokes, formula rear hub (2x), and front Formula road hub (radial), without a single problem for over 4000 miles now. I built this wheelset for about $340, but you could easily get it down to $300 with unbladed spokes. It is about 600 grams lighter, stiffer, and noticably faster than my old 32/32 3x wheels with surly hubs DT spokes and CXP33 rims. My road bike, which has the same wheelset (but with road hubs) has lasted over 5000 miles, and they are as true true as the day I built them.

6. I would stick with a formula or novatec rear hub. They perform just as well as higher end hubs. It has been claimed that the bearings are lesser quality, though in my experience (with formulas) the bearings are very smooth and last a long time. Even if the bearings crap out, you can replace then with phil-quality bearings for a few dollars. In terms of performance and durability, a fomula hub with phil bearings is basically the same a phil hub at 20% of the cost. There are many good front road hubs to choose from..anything from Shimano, Formula or Novatec are going to be fine. Check out Bob Dolapina threads in the group buy subforum.

Good luck!