Help with a Schwinn Sanctuary
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 6
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From: Detroit
Bikes: Schwinn Sanctuary
Help with a Schwinn Sanctuary
I took off the back tire of my Schwinn Sanctuary to replace the tube..and Now I can't for the life of me figure out which way it goes to put it back on..and Haven't found a youtube video that was the least bit helpful...re there any other Sanctuary riders that would be able to help?..possibly with a picture of the back tire from both sides?...thanks in advance
#2
covered in cat fur
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 612
Likes: 0
From: Willkes-Barre, PA
Bikes: Papillionaire Sommer, '85 Schwinn World Tourist, 2014 Windsor Kensington 8, SixThreeZero SS Cruiser
I have one. The side with the gears goes on the side with the chain.
Other than that, I don't think it matters.
Other than that, I don't think it matters.
#3
Add some notes about what kind of bike you have. Perhaps some photos.
Is it a 5 speed with derailleur?
3 speed internal gearing?
Single Speed?
The photos I see online look like there are several models, but otherwise nothing too different from every other bike.
Is it a 5 speed with derailleur?
3 speed internal gearing?
Single Speed?
The photos I see online look like there are several models, but otherwise nothing too different from every other bike.
#6
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Not sure what the problem is, tire or wheel,
BUT I love the headline.
It conjured an image of some island with a bunch of vintage bikes surround by high reeds, maybe off the west coast of Florida, or near Mobile Bay.
BUT I love the headline.
It conjured an image of some island with a bunch of vintage bikes surround by high reeds, maybe off the west coast of Florida, or near Mobile Bay.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#7
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Detroit
Bikes: Schwinn Sanctuary
It almost looks like it could be a deformity in the wheel or tire..however internet searches have pointed to the possibility of the tire not being seated properly or a pinch in the tube...so..taking the whole mess apart again....and starting over
#8
I had a different image.
Of me coming over with my angle grinder.

(No Schwinns were actually damaged with this project).
Good point, there are 3 types of wobbles that I can think of.
- Loose Bearing Cones. The whole wheel can be wobbled when not turning
- Out of true, or bent rim. The rim wobbles when spinning.
If only a little, it can be easily fixed with a spoke wrench. Anybody can fix it, but perhaps best to have someone show you first.
If really bad (like after getting run over by a car), then it can't be fixed. - Poorly seated tire. Rim spins ok, but the tire wobbles. There should be markings on the edge of the tire that should be even going around the wheel. This needs to be fixed as it could cause a blowout on the road.
#9
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Let's go back to basics. Step one is deciding if the wheel itself is straight. Leave it in the bike and hold a reference like a pencil braced against either seat stay a small distance from the side of the rim. Spin the wheel and see if the rim itself is wobbling.
If the rim is wobbling, it's a spoke related problem. If the wheel runs true, it's a tire mounting related problem. If the wheel spins true, but the whole wheel can be jiggled on the axle, then it's loose hub bearings.
When mounting tires, mount starting opposite and work toward the valve in both directions. After finishing at the valve, push it in as far as you can (without losing it) and it'll pull out any tube you might have trapped under the tire. Next inflate only enough to give the tire shape and make it firm. Spin the wheel slowly while watching the reference line molded into the tire just above the rim. It should remain equidistant. Check both sides and, if necessary, massage the tire into place so the reference line runs true on both sides. Now it's OK to inflate to full pressure, and you should be good to go.
If the rim is wobbling, it's a spoke related problem. If the wheel runs true, it's a tire mounting related problem. If the wheel spins true, but the whole wheel can be jiggled on the axle, then it's loose hub bearings.
When mounting tires, mount starting opposite and work toward the valve in both directions. After finishing at the valve, push it in as far as you can (without losing it) and it'll pull out any tube you might have trapped under the tire. Next inflate only enough to give the tire shape and make it firm. Spin the wheel slowly while watching the reference line molded into the tire just above the rim. It should remain equidistant. Check both sides and, if necessary, massage the tire into place so the reference line runs true on both sides. Now it's OK to inflate to full pressure, and you should be good to go.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by FBinNY; 07-18-15 at 10:14 PM.
#11
It sounds like the wobble you were noticing earlier may have been a poorly seated tire or pinched tube.
Being able to "wobble" the whole wheel can lead to rapid wear of the cones and bearings. The adjustment is pretty easy, but it does take some practice. You probably will need a cone wrench. Sometimes on can do minor adjustments without one, but it is tough, especially if you haven't adjusted the cones before.
Do you have a neighbor that you ever see working on his or her bike on the front porch?
Being able to "wobble" the whole wheel can lead to rapid wear of the cones and bearings. The adjustment is pretty easy, but it does take some practice. You probably will need a cone wrench. Sometimes on can do minor adjustments without one, but it is tough, especially if you haven't adjusted the cones before.
Do you have a neighbor that you ever see working on his or her bike on the front porch?
#13
If the tire is mounted wrong, you might work on that a bit more. It is good practice.
Are you able to mount (and dismount?) the tire with just your fingers?
I always do the valve first, and work away from the valve, but FBinNY's method is reasonable, with doing the valve last, then using it to clear any rubber under the tire. I'm just careful that I don't roll the tube under the tire, especially near the end.
The bike shop should be able to tighten the cones. If you bought the bike new there, they might do it for free
Watch the guys there if possible.
Here in Eugene, we also have a local bike co-op where the "mechanics" will help teach you about the bikes. See if you have a local one.
Are you able to mount (and dismount?) the tire with just your fingers?
I always do the valve first, and work away from the valve, but FBinNY's method is reasonable, with doing the valve last, then using it to clear any rubber under the tire. I'm just careful that I don't roll the tube under the tire, especially near the end.
The bike shop should be able to tighten the cones. If you bought the bike new there, they might do it for free

Watch the guys there if possible.
Here in Eugene, we also have a local bike co-op where the "mechanics" will help teach you about the bikes. See if you have a local one.
#14
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Detroit has (had?) 2 bicycle co-ops the OP can check out. The Hub which is downtown, and Red Planet , near Woodwrd & Seven Mile. Either can help him out, and maybe he can help them in return.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#16
Full Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 297
Likes: 5
From: Rogers, AR
Bikes: '87 Giant Iguana, Nishiki designed Kamra Aero II, Schwinn Loop folder, 1985 Fuji Pallisade Mixte
Do you mean which way to mount the tire according to the direction it turns? If there's no arrow on the sidewall, and the tire has tread in a "V" shaped pattern, mount the tire on the rim so that when you look down at the tread on top of the tire, the "Vs" point forward. No"Vs"? It probably doesn't matter. It may not anyway.
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