Does anyone replace PF30 bearings? I see plenty about removing and installing the cups with bearings into the shell, but does anyone actually replace the bearings, or just junk the whole BB? I have a Wheels Manu PF30 BB assy here and it is well made. There is very little surface area on the outer bearing race visible to tap against. I don't think you could do it in the shell, maybe once you remove the cups if you are careful you could punch out the bearings without damaging the cups (unless they are thread-locked in the cups). Pressing in the new bearings shouldn't be an issue if you could get the old ones out.

So what do folks do with these?

scott s.
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Enduro Bearings makes tool to press out and replace the bearings of almost all current bottom bracket types and also sells replacement bearings so, yes, it can be done. The tools aren't cheap and neither are their replacement bearings so consider if it's worth it.

Tools | Enduro Bearings

Since PF30 bearings are directly molded into nylon sleeves that are also pressed directly into the frame, you need to replace the whole thing. You can do this easily at home with the park tool punch and a threaded rod with washers. I used this method to replace my BB30 bearings.

Usually I'll punch the bearings out of the cups. If the bond between cup and bearing is stronger, the whole thing comes out and gets replaced. If the bearing comes out of the cup, I put new bearings into the cups. It's the same price for the consumer and less waste. I prefer to replace the bearings as I can then use an Enduro 61806 bearing, which is an upgrade from the general FSA/TH white-seal bearing that seems to come in every cheap BB/PF30.

- Joel

Thanks. Their BRT-002 tool seems to work by actually expanding a collet in the inner race and then forcing the bearing out that way. $150 though to remove bearings from a $50 PF30 BB is a little steep for the home user.

scott s.
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I have the Park tool and that is all I need for the BB with a threaded rod (though I guess acme thread would be best). But the Park tool seems to only work on the cup for removal. This WM BB I have has very nice alloy cups with o-rings where it engages the shell and also the interface between the two sides. So when I install this I would kind of like to make it a "forever" job and only renew the bearings if needed later.

I got started on this because I didn't like the feel of cranks spinning and pulled the seals off the bearings in the OEM SRAM PF30. The drive side bearing didn't look that good. I tried to clean it up and force some grease in there the best I could while in the bike, but it doesn't seem like the most effective means (in the past I have only had old-style square taper BB with balls in carrier that's easy to service).

scott s.
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Ooh, that BRT-002 is pretty. I didn't know such a thing existed.

I have Campy PowerTorque cups in a PF30 shell. Campy want you to replace the entire cup / bearing assembly. Wary of reports of creaking / backing out, I enthusiastically Loctite 609'ed the cups before pressing them in, and I've been wondering how replacement would go when the day comes. Might be a solution (albeit an $150 one).

I warned you they were expensive.