Hi, is it possible to use the small red 22 chainring (36 or 38T) with sram red 10 speed crankset??

Cause Ihave the 2012-13 red crankset, 50-38, it was 50-34 and I bought a 38 but with that setup my chain is getting stuck between my two rings.

I had that setup with my older sram red, 2010 version without a problem, now my big ring is the exogram and the 38t is the same that I had on my previous setup, maybe both are not really compatible??

thank you

The critical dimension when looking at your problem is the distance from the tips of the teeth of the smaller ring to the inner face of the larger. The only variable there is the offset of the teeth with respect to the mounting face of the inner ring. Lay both the original inner ring and replacement flat on a table mounting face down and see if the teeth line up. I suspect they won't by a fraction of a millimeter.

Also, there might be (rarely) a shoulder of sorts on the inside of the outer ring which helps bump the chain over, and the large ring may extend higher and not benefit.

thanks, finally after some adjustments, now it still does that but just when I a m on the two last cogs.

last two in which direction? 2 biggest or 2 smallest?

oh sorry, smallest yes

OK, this isn't all that rare. The chain is coming from the outside so it pulls back toward the larger ring. Ideally it couldn't fit and fam into the gap between the teeth and outer ring face, but life isn't always so ideal.

You might (only maybe) improve things with a bit of inboard trim adjustment for a snappier shift, but the side effects like possible chain drop may not be worth it. The right fix, would be to thin the inner ring to move the teeth over closer to the outer ring, but that also is lot's of work unless you own a belt sander or similar tool.

One other fix that will definitely improve things is to go with a slightly wider chain. Even within the same "speed" class, ie 9s,10s,11s, there's variation in actual chain width. A few extra 10ths of millimeters width might be the critical difference and solve or at least greatly mitigate the issue.

I have dura ace chain, as usual

That doesn't help me any since I don't memorize all bike parts specs (don' even memorize a few). You might see if the Sram or other chain are a bit wider and give one of them a shot.

You can also thin the crank set just on the mounting pads for the smaller ring. Quick work with a file, but go SLOW and measure often to make sure you are staying flat and keeping the inside surface parallel to the outside surface.

ok but, its not supposed to do that, we dont have to ''modified'' the crankset, I dont why it does that.

Not sure how helpful this is, but I'm working with an Exogram crank and trying to find a compatible 46 tooth outer ring. The problem is different than yours, but an observation of the Exogram inner ring may be of help. The Exogram inner is machined and relieved to move it closer to the outer ring by nearly 1mm compared to earlier Powerglide inner rings.

If I were doing what you're attempting I WOULD NOT attempt to thin the ring mounting tabs. It's a great way to ruin a good carbon crank. I'd take the inner ring to the lathe (or local machine shop) and relieve the inner mounting face by .020". Not sure this helps but it would close the gap to Exogram specs. It still may not work as desired as the Exogram rings are designed to work with YAW derailleur.

Then there's the thing with the hidden bolt vs non-hidden bolt crank style. The inner and outer should be matched for best shift performance.

You may be stuck with a 34 or 36 tooth inner that is compatible with the Exogram outer.