Extracting Stem adapter
05-01-15, 09:26 AM
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longi
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Extracting Stem adapter
Hi there!
Wondering if anyone of you guys know how to extract this stem adapter I have in my bike:
I've already taken out this screw and bolt from the upper part:
I believe it's a threadless adapter, isn't it?
I've tried with WD-40 and a bit of a hammer, but don't wanna do too much of it until somebody tells me I'm doing the right thing.
Anyone?
Thanks a lot!
Wondering if anyone of you guys know how to extract this stem adapter I have in my bike:
I've already taken out this screw and bolt from the upper part:
I believe it's a threadless adapter, isn't it?
I've tried with WD-40 and a bit of a hammer, but don't wanna do too much of it until somebody tells me I'm doing the right thing.
Anyone?
Thanks a lot!
05-01-15, 09:44 AM
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Put the bolt back in loosely and give it a tap until it drops down. That will loosen the wedge. It should come out then. Otherwise, you should be able to turn the bike upside down, remove the wheel and tap it out from the bottom of the fork/steerer.
05-01-15, 10:02 AM
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longi
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If I tap strongly enough the bottom of the inside of the fork, it will come out? That isn't part of the fork, right?
Thanks!
05-01-15, 10:48 AM
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There's a wedge attached to the bolt which you push down so the stem releases. See image
It only needs to drop an 1/8" or so, so if the bolt is attached and you can freely lift and drop the bolt that much, you're done. Leave it attached so you don't have to go fishing for the wedge later.
Once the wedge is free, the stem adapter can still be snug in the steerer. Back when quill stems were SOP, you'd typically twist the bars left and right with the wheel trapped between your knees and work the stem up. So, clamp your bars back onto the adapter and do the same thing.
It only needs to drop an 1/8" or so, so if the bolt is attached and you can freely lift and drop the bolt that much, you're done. Leave it attached so you don't have to go fishing for the wedge later.
Once the wedge is free, the stem adapter can still be snug in the steerer. Back when quill stems were SOP, you'd typically twist the bars left and right with the wheel trapped between your knees and work the stem up. So, clamp your bars back onto the adapter and do the same thing.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by FBinNY; 05-01-15 at 11:01 AM.
05-01-15, 10:57 AM
#6
Banned
Could still be rusted in place : Galvanic corrosion - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
05-02-15, 04:53 AM
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longi
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There's a wedge attached to the bolt which you push down so the stem releases. See image
It only needs to drop an 1/8" or so, so if the bolt is attached and you can freely lift and drop the bolt that much, you're done. Leave it attached so you don't have to go fishing for the wedge later.
Once the wedge is free, the stem adapter can still be snug in the steerer. Back when quill stems were SOP, you'd typically twist the bars left and right with the wheel trapped between your knees and work the stem up. So, clamp your bars back onto the adapter and do the same thing.
It only needs to drop an 1/8" or so, so if the bolt is attached and you can freely lift and drop the bolt that much, you're done. Leave it attached so you don't have to go fishing for the wedge later.
Once the wedge is free, the stem adapter can still be snug in the steerer. Back when quill stems were SOP, you'd typically twist the bars left and right with the wheel trapped between your knees and work the stem up. So, clamp your bars back onto the adapter and do the same thing.
Still nothing. It doesn't move at all.
I'm strongly considering in using the hammer really strongly in the bottom of the fork (tapping in what would be the wedge of the adapter, right?).
It should get out if tap all day... Am I right?
Thanks!
05-02-15, 07:53 AM
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You should try a better penetrating oil than WD40. Assuming you are talking about putting a long punch up through the bottom of the fork steerer, that should work. Although you will be hitting the wedge so won't get a direct hit on the stem.
You tried putting the stem and bars on and twisting?
Sacrificing the stem and putting a big pipe wrench on it might get it turning/moving.
You tried putting the stem and bars on and twisting?
Sacrificing the stem and putting a big pipe wrench on it might get it turning/moving.
05-02-15, 08:53 AM
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I'm starting to think that the stem is stucked in there forever.
It's a french bike with a Galli headset. Is it possible that the last owner hammered in a stem adapter that is 2mm wider than the headset? Because the adapter seems kind of new...
How do I measure the headset so to realise this?
It's a french bike with a Galli headset. Is it possible that the last owner hammered in a stem adapter that is 2mm wider than the headset? Because the adapter seems kind of new...
How do I measure the headset so to realise this?
05-02-15, 09:34 AM
#10
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That would be 0.2mm, if true *22.2-22.0= 0.2mm ... *7/8"
Thats steerer tube ID , First, You have to get it out, to measure that , Of Course..
Thats steerer tube ID , First, You have to get it out, to measure that , Of Course..
05-02-15, 02:57 PM
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There's a wedge attached to the bolt which you push down so the stem releases. See image
It only needs to drop an 1/8" or so, so if the bolt is attached and you can freely lift and drop the bolt that much, you're done. Leave it attached so you don't have to go fishing for the wedge later.
Once the wedge is free, the stem adapter can still be snug in the steerer. Back when quill stems were SOP, you'd typically twist the bars left and right with the wheel trapped between your knees and work the stem up. So, clamp your bars back onto the adapter and do the same thing.
It only needs to drop an 1/8" or so, so if the bolt is attached and you can freely lift and drop the bolt that much, you're done. Leave it attached so you don't have to go fishing for the wedge later.
Once the wedge is free, the stem adapter can still be snug in the steerer. Back when quill stems were SOP, you'd typically twist the bars left and right with the wheel trapped between your knees and work the stem up. So, clamp your bars back onto the adapter and do the same thing.
Could still be rusted in place : Galvanic corrosion - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
You should try a better penetrating oil than WD40. Assuming you are talking about putting a long punch up through the bottom of the fork steerer, that should work. Although you will be hitting the wedge so won't get a direct hit on the stem.
You tried putting the stem and bars on and twisting?
Sacrificing the stem and putting a big pipe wrench on it might get it turning/moving.
You tried putting the stem and bars on and twisting?
Sacrificing the stem and putting a big pipe wrench on it might get it turning/moving.
So I've checked the model and the adapter size is 22.2.
What I don't know is if the diameter of the fork tube is 22.0 or 22.2... I'm guessing 22.0 mm, because it's a french bike, altough the headset is an italian Galli.
So, if the adapter is indeed 22.2 mm, my only choice is to take the frame to a bike shop so to drill the adapter out, right? There's no way it's going to come out by hammer.
05-02-15, 03:04 PM
#12
Banned
Intra European Trade Happens..
Reynolds Tube is British But they still made Tube- Sets as their French Bike Manufacturer customers Wanted it and that was Metric even number diameters,
the same firm made The fractional Inch sizes for the rest of the world.
Ditto component makers.. Big enough Market to supply and It Gets Done.
Maybe saw away with a Hacksaw .. or seek out a Machine Shop .. they are better equipped with drill presses and the like.
Reynolds Tube is British But they still made Tube- Sets as their French Bike Manufacturer customers Wanted it and that was Metric even number diameters,
the same firm made The fractional Inch sizes for the rest of the world.
Ditto component makers.. Big enough Market to supply and It Gets Done.
Maybe saw away with a Hacksaw .. or seek out a Machine Shop .. they are better equipped with drill presses and the like.
Last edited by fietsbob; 05-02-15 at 03:09 PM.
05-02-15, 03:21 PM
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OK, if you're willing to sacrifice the adapter, here's how to proceed.
1- hacksaw off the top as close to the headset as possible, so you're down to the 7/8" (22.2) section.
2- if necessary file off any remaining part of the larger diameter head.
3- remove headset, and drop the fork
4- now that the threads are exposed you can confirm if it's a French 25x1 or 25.4x24tpi thread.
5- if a larger adapter was forced in, the ONLY way you'll get it out is to file, ream or slot/cut it out. The method is the same as for frozen seatposts so a search there will help.
6- if it's not a French fork, then it's just bound in by corrosion, and you might be able to punch it out. Find a steel headset lock nut and thread it on until it's bottomed solidly. This is to protect the fork for what follows.
7- See if there's enough room to push the wedge down and rotate it 180°, so it touches high point to high point, and won't work as a wedge.
8- set the fork up over a pair of vise jaws with the locknut resting on top, and a gap for the stem to slide through. Use a solid punch through the bottom and drive the stem out pushing the wedge. (this method DOES NOT WORK if the wedge can't be turned around, because you'll just be tightening it. So you may still need to ream or file it out.
1- hacksaw off the top as close to the headset as possible, so you're down to the 7/8" (22.2) section.
2- if necessary file off any remaining part of the larger diameter head.
3- remove headset, and drop the fork
4- now that the threads are exposed you can confirm if it's a French 25x1 or 25.4x24tpi thread.
5- if a larger adapter was forced in, the ONLY way you'll get it out is to file, ream or slot/cut it out. The method is the same as for frozen seatposts so a search there will help.
6- if it's not a French fork, then it's just bound in by corrosion, and you might be able to punch it out. Find a steel headset lock nut and thread it on until it's bottomed solidly. This is to protect the fork for what follows.
7- See if there's enough room to push the wedge down and rotate it 180°, so it touches high point to high point, and won't work as a wedge.
8- set the fork up over a pair of vise jaws with the locknut resting on top, and a gap for the stem to slide through. Use a solid punch through the bottom and drive the stem out pushing the wedge. (this method DOES NOT WORK if the wedge can't be turned around, because you'll just be tightening it. So you may still need to ream or file it out.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
05-02-15, 05:03 PM
#14
longi
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OK, if you're willing to sacrifice the adapter, here's how to proceed.
1- hacksaw off the top as close to the headset as possible, so you're down to the 7/8" (22.2) section.
2- if necessary file off any remaining part of the larger diameter head.
3- remove headset, and drop the fork
4- now that the threads are exposed you can confirm if it's a French 25x1 or 25.4x24tpi thread.
5- if a larger adapter was forced in, the ONLY way you'll get it out is to file, ream or slot/cut it out. The method is the same as for frozen seatposts so a search there will help.
6- if it's not a French fork, then it's just bound in by corrosion, and you might be able to punch it out. Find a steel headset lock nut and thread it on until it's bottomed solidly. This is to protect the fork for what follows.
7- See if there's enough room to push the wedge down and rotate it 180°, so it touches high point to high point, and won't work as a wedge.
8- set the fork up over a pair of vise jaws with the locknut resting on top, and a gap for the stem to slide through. Use a solid punch through the bottom and drive the stem out pushing the wedge. (this method DOES NOT WORK if the wedge can't be turned around, because you'll just be tightening it. So you may still need to ream or file it out.
1- hacksaw off the top as close to the headset as possible, so you're down to the 7/8" (22.2) section.
2- if necessary file off any remaining part of the larger diameter head.
3- remove headset, and drop the fork
4- now that the threads are exposed you can confirm if it's a French 25x1 or 25.4x24tpi thread.
5- if a larger adapter was forced in, the ONLY way you'll get it out is to file, ream or slot/cut it out. The method is the same as for frozen seatposts so a search there will help.
6- if it's not a French fork, then it's just bound in by corrosion, and you might be able to punch it out. Find a steel headset lock nut and thread it on until it's bottomed solidly. This is to protect the fork for what follows.
7- See if there's enough room to push the wedge down and rotate it 180°, so it touches high point to high point, and won't work as a wedge.
8- set the fork up over a pair of vise jaws with the locknut resting on top, and a gap for the stem to slide through. Use a solid punch through the bottom and drive the stem out pushing the wedge. (this method DOES NOT WORK if the wedge can't be turned around, because you'll just be tightening it. So you may still need to ream or file it out.
If it is indeed a case of adapter forced in, I should cut it out with a file across the section of the adapter... Is this a job for a bike pro? I have some manual skills but I'm afraid of damaging the fork!
05-02-15, 05:22 PM
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Cut off everything down to the top o the fork, or headset nut, or as close as you feel comfortable going with a hacksaw, then you can finish with a file, until you're down to the inserted diameter. That will allow the headset to come off and the fork to be removed.
I don' know i you own a hacksaw, but can tell you that many bike shop "pros" are th wrong people for the job, because they'll either refuse it, charge you too much, or botch it anyway.
You want an old fashioned, dirty fingernails mechanic, willing to take in a challenge because he likes interesting job and is used to doing work beyond simply hanging new components on a frame. If there' a co-op in town, that may be the right place to go. Or, if you cn free the fork yourself, you might be be to mail it to someone like Yellow Jersey in Wisc. to have the stub removed at a reasonable price. Email Andy in advance for a quote, and tell him Francis from Chain-L sent you.
BTW- before going the saw route you might be able to dodge a bullet using the locknut as a screw jack to forse the stem out. Use a 2x4 to keep the fork from turning, and back the headset nut up against the stem, then crank on it and see if it will jack the stem up. This may mar the top of the nut, or may strip it, or may even strip the fork if the threads are already damaged (unseen), but it's a shot if you don't go crazy.
I don' know i you own a hacksaw, but can tell you that many bike shop "pros" are th wrong people for the job, because they'll either refuse it, charge you too much, or botch it anyway.
You want an old fashioned, dirty fingernails mechanic, willing to take in a challenge because he likes interesting job and is used to doing work beyond simply hanging new components on a frame. If there' a co-op in town, that may be the right place to go. Or, if you cn free the fork yourself, you might be be to mail it to someone like Yellow Jersey in Wisc. to have the stub removed at a reasonable price. Email Andy in advance for a quote, and tell him Francis from Chain-L sent you.
BTW- before going the saw route you might be able to dodge a bullet using the locknut as a screw jack to forse the stem out. Use a 2x4 to keep the fork from turning, and back the headset nut up against the stem, then crank on it and see if it will jack the stem up. This may mar the top of the nut, or may strip it, or may even strip the fork if the threads are already damaged (unseen), but it's a shot if you don't go crazy.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by FBinNY; 05-02-15 at 05:26 PM.
05-03-15, 07:40 AM
#16
longi
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Cut off everything down to the top o the fork, or headset nut, or as close as you feel comfortable going with a hacksaw, then you can finish with a file, until you're down to the inserted diameter. That will allow the headset to come off and the fork to be removed.
I don' know i you own a hacksaw, but can tell you that many bike shop "pros" are th wrong people for the job, because they'll either refuse it, charge you too much, or botch it anyway.
You want an old fashioned, dirty fingernails mechanic, willing to take in a challenge because he likes interesting job and is used to doing work beyond simply hanging new components on a frame. If there' a co-op in town, that may be the right place to go. Or, if you cn free the fork yourself, you might be be to mail it to someone like Yellow Jersey in Wisc. to have the stub removed at a reasonable price. Email Andy in advance for a quote, and tell him Francis from Chain-L sent you.
BTW- before going the saw route you might be able to dodge a bullet using the locknut as a screw jack to forse the stem out. Use a 2x4 to keep the fork from turning, and back the headset nut up against the stem, then crank on it and see if it will jack the stem up. This may mar the top of the nut, or may strip it, or may even strip the fork if the threads are already damaged (unseen), but it's a shot if you don't go crazy.
I don' know i you own a hacksaw, but can tell you that many bike shop "pros" are th wrong people for the job, because they'll either refuse it, charge you too much, or botch it anyway.
You want an old fashioned, dirty fingernails mechanic, willing to take in a challenge because he likes interesting job and is used to doing work beyond simply hanging new components on a frame. If there' a co-op in town, that may be the right place to go. Or, if you cn free the fork yourself, you might be be to mail it to someone like Yellow Jersey in Wisc. to have the stub removed at a reasonable price. Email Andy in advance for a quote, and tell him Francis from Chain-L sent you.
BTW- before going the saw route you might be able to dodge a bullet using the locknut as a screw jack to forse the stem out. Use a 2x4 to keep the fork from turning, and back the headset nut up against the stem, then crank on it and see if it will jack the stem up. This may mar the top of the nut, or may strip it, or may even strip the fork if the threads are already damaged (unseen), but it's a shot if you don't go crazy.
I do have a 200 mm steel Stanley hacksaw. I believe it will do the job.
What I don't have is a steel file. Would this work to cut the aluminium adapter?
https://www.amazon.fr/Kinzo-71827-Lim...productDetails
Thanks!
