Low Disc Brake Tension
06-04-15 | 05:56 AM
#1
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Low Disc Brake Tension
Hey everyone,
I had a pair of avid bb5s and upgraded to trp spyres. When adjusting the brake tension I can only get it really low, it feels as if I need more cable to get it tothe right tension.
I'm a newbie and this is my first time installing disc brakes, any help or tips to get the tension correct?
I had a pair of avid bb5s and upgraded to trp spyres. When adjusting the brake tension I can only get it really low, it feels as if I need more cable to get it tothe right tension.
I'm a newbie and this is my first time installing disc brakes, any help or tips to get the tension correct?
06-04-15 | 06:09 AM
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06-04-15 | 06:15 AM
#3
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From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Jagwire Ripcord cable housing. It's compressionless which makes it much better in marginal cable pull applications. Unfortunately, it costs about twice as much as other brake cable housings.
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06-04-15 | 06:15 AM
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06-04-15 | 06:52 AM
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Sorry, but you can't adjust brake (or gear) cable tension. That's set by the brake's return spring.
You adjust cable length, and if you have it so the brake clears the disc when released, and can apply full braking power before the lever runs out of travel, then all is good. If you're having trouble getting both release and full power within the throw of the lever, then the problem may be cable compression, or play in some of the fittings.
Brakes vary in the strength of their return springs, and lighter spring are considered a plus because they make for a lighter action so all your hand strength is used braking rather than overcoming the spring.
You adjust cable length, and if you have it so the brake clears the disc when released, and can apply full braking power before the lever runs out of travel, then all is good. If you're having trouble getting both release and full power within the throw of the lever, then the problem may be cable compression, or play in some of the fittings.
Brakes vary in the strength of their return springs, and lighter spring are considered a plus because they make for a lighter action so all your hand strength is used braking rather than overcoming the spring.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
06-04-15 | 08:41 PM
#6
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Sorry, but you can't adjust brake (or gear) cable tension. That's set by the brake's return spring.
You adjust cable length, and if you have it so the brake clears the disc when released, and can apply full braking power before the lever runs out of travel, then all is good. If you're having trouble getting both release and full power within the throw of the lever, then the problem may be cable compression, or play in some of the fittings.
Brakes vary in the strength of their return springs, and lighter spring are considered a plus because they make for a lighter action so all your hand strength is used braking rather than overcoming the spring.
You adjust cable length, and if you have it so the brake clears the disc when released, and can apply full braking power before the lever runs out of travel, then all is good. If you're having trouble getting both release and full power within the throw of the lever, then the problem may be cable compression, or play in some of the fittings.
Brakes vary in the strength of their return springs, and lighter spring are considered a plus because they make for a lighter action so all your hand strength is used braking rather than overcoming the spring.
I took them to my LBS to get them installed properly as I'm still la newbie when it comes to bicycle mechanics.
I think the cable that I have on them now is Jagwire CEX but it does say to use compression less. How much better is compression less cable housing and how exactly would it effect the feel of the lever/ braking power?
06-04-15 | 08:58 PM
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
So, I ask you, do you have a problem? Or more specifically, can you adjust the brakes so they don't rub when open, and at the same time cannot squeeze the lever to the bar except using strength much greater than you'd ever use to stop the bike? If so, all is good, and you can move on to other problems.
In any case, I suggest you adjust the brakes as well as you can and ride the bike and see how they stop. Because if the brakes work fine, none of the rest really matters.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
06-04-15 | 10:59 PM
#8
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From: Ohio
Bikes: S-Works Tarmac, Nashbar CX, Trek 2200 trainer bike, Salsa Casseroll commuter, old school FS MTB
I had a ton of trouble with a set of these today. All the more reason to hate discs, as far as I'm concerned. Once I get them set properly they'd bite well, but not without a long cable travel first. I would have tried clamping it with less travel in the caliper but it was hard enough to get the caliper lined up. Maybe if you pull up the clamp lever a bit before clamping to lessen the amount of cable you'd need to pull to lock the wheel?
