Reinstalling front wheel
#1
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Joined: Oct 2014
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From: Canada
Reinstalling front wheel
I've been having trouble with a simple task and am hoping for pointers on anything I might be missing. I had the front wheel off of a Felt V85 (quick release, bike has TRP Spyre disc brakes). I tried 3 times to reattach the wheel and I cannot seem to avoid the disc sitting against one of the brake pads, causing lots of friction when spinning the wheel.
The bike is nearly new (~30km on it) and all was fine before I took the wheel off. I've had the wheel off before and reinstalled without issue. I didn't squeeze the brake lever while the wheel was off, which I've heard is not good. I had the bike on the ground and not the stand to make sure the dropouts were seated on the skewer.
It seems that this should be a very straightforward task...what am I likely to be doing wrong?
The bike is nearly new (~30km on it) and all was fine before I took the wheel off. I've had the wheel off before and reinstalled without issue. I didn't squeeze the brake lever while the wheel was off, which I've heard is not good. I had the bike on the ground and not the stand to make sure the dropouts were seated on the skewer.
It seems that this should be a very straightforward task...what am I likely to be doing wrong?
Last edited by plgcp; 06-12-15 at 10:46 AM.
#2
Senior Member

Joined: May 2003
Posts: 4,056
Likes: 166
From: Mountain Brook. AL
This is sometimes finicky, a youtube video on pad adjustment is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hj7JuYTdrJY.
The Spyre website has a longer install video as well. I found the BB7 to be an occasional PITA to get the wheel on right
and fiddling with the pad adjustment sometimes necessary. Spyre makes it dual sided so you have two options too deal
with in pad adjusting. The new bike is even more likely to need some adjusting than one ridden for hundreds of miles.
You want to make very sure the wheel is fully seated in the dropouts, but this is usually apparent on inspection at the
dropout and by noting tire centering in the fork apex. Unlikely, but for fun check the pads for symmetry of thickness.
The Spyre website has a longer install video as well. I found the BB7 to be an occasional PITA to get the wheel on right
and fiddling with the pad adjustment sometimes necessary. Spyre makes it dual sided so you have two options too deal
with in pad adjusting. The new bike is even more likely to need some adjusting than one ridden for hundreds of miles.
You want to make very sure the wheel is fully seated in the dropouts, but this is usually apparent on inspection at the
dropout and by noting tire centering in the fork apex. Unlikely, but for fun check the pads for symmetry of thickness.
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 972
Likes: 2
From: South Central PA
Bikes: Cannondale Slate 105 and T2 tandem, 2008 Scott Addict R4, Raleigh SC drop bar tandem
I would put the wheel on with the skewer open. Squeeze the front brake lever a few times and without letting the wheel move, close the skewer.
Check that you did not bump the caliper out of alignment and also that the disc is actually between the brake pads and not slipping in behind one.
If all that checks out and you still have the problem, then loosen the caliper and perform the first step and with the lever engaged, tighten down the caliper. That should help center.
Check that you did not bump the caliper out of alignment and also that the disc is actually between the brake pads and not slipping in behind one.
If all that checks out and you still have the problem, then loosen the caliper and perform the first step and with the lever engaged, tighten down the caliper. That should help center.
#4
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,898
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It seems that this should be a very straightforward task...what am I likely to be doing wrong?
Are the ends of the cable housing properly seated in the brake caliper and brake lever?
Are the brake pads properly seated in the brake caliper?
Anything done to the axle or brake caliper when the wheel was removed?
#5
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 8,327
Likes: 1,112
From: Roswell, GA
Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta
Unless the axle is perfectly straight and the ends are perfectly flat (being threaded, they are not) and the dropouts perfectly smooth, the wheel will settle in the dropouts in a slightly different position each time. Even a few thousandths change at the axle will be magnified and move the disc a little bit. As the clearances are quite tight, you should probably expect to have to make minor adjustments each time. It is an imperfect world.
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agold2009
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