Spokes!!!
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
Spokes!!!
My baby!!! My baby!!!! Geez Louise guys I finally did it my specialized sirrus elite has taken beating after beating from her overweight novice owner but every time she's ready to roll. But this time I busted the spoke is there a way to fix this? Or do I need to replace the entire rim? I know it seems cheep of me but I'm in hard times like really rough so I just wanna know can I simplybreplace the spoke or new rIm? I don't wanna not ride tomorrow sad face indeed.
#2
A little more data please.
Is there any chance the rim is bent? A slight wobble is normal. A HUGE distortion could be bad.
It is easy enough to replace a broken spoke, provided you have a replacement (or there is a cable emergency spoke that some people use).
Is the broken spoke on the front or rear wheel? On the rear, cassette/freewheel side, or the other side?
You may find it easiest to just remove the cassette/freewheel, but the left side might be able to be repaired without removing the cassette.
You will need to true the wheel after replacing the spoke.
Multiple broken spokes on the same rim may indicate that you should replace all the spokes (which can cost more than a new wheel in some cases). A few isolated broken spokes may be normal.
Is there any chance the rim is bent? A slight wobble is normal. A HUGE distortion could be bad.
It is easy enough to replace a broken spoke, provided you have a replacement (or there is a cable emergency spoke that some people use).
Is the broken spoke on the front or rear wheel? On the rear, cassette/freewheel side, or the other side?
You may find it easiest to just remove the cassette/freewheel, but the left side might be able to be repaired without removing the cassette.
You will need to true the wheel after replacing the spoke.
Multiple broken spokes on the same rim may indicate that you should replace all the spokes (which can cost more than a new wheel in some cases). A few isolated broken spokes may be normal.
#3
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 30,225
Likes: 649
From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
First, you have to find a replacement spoke.
Back in the olden days there were basically only 2 kinds of spokes: 14 gauge and 14/15/14 double butted. Bike shops carried both in a variety of sizes. Then came black spokes. Then the flood gates opened until there were a gazillion different varieties of spokes and bike shops stopped trying to stock them all.
Back in the olden days there were basically only 2 kinds of spokes: 14 gauge and 14/15/14 double butted. Bike shops carried both in a variety of sizes. Then came black spokes. Then the flood gates opened until there were a gazillion different varieties of spokes and bike shops stopped trying to stock them all.
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#4
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,248
Likes: 4
From: Seattle
Bikes: Kuota Ksano. Litespeed T5 gravel - brilliant!
My baby!!! My baby!!!! Geez Louise guys I finally did it my specialized sirrus elite has taken beating after beating from her overweight novice owner but every time she's ready to roll. But this time I busted the spoke is there a way to fix this? Or do I need to replace the entire rim? I know it seems cheep of me but I'm in hard times like really rough so I just wanna know can I simplybreplace the spoke or new rIm? I don't wanna not ride tomorrow sad face indeed.
A bunch of Specialized bikes have unique spokes, I've got an old Specialized/Alex rim in the basement. If you can identify the rim/wheel, someone here might be able to help you by posting you a spoke or two. I'd do it.
Last edited by cale; 07-16-15 at 01:05 AM.
#5
An isolated single broken spoke is not a big deal and can be replaced fairly easily. Without knowing the year of your bike I can't be sure, but a quick look at the specs for a few versions of the Sirrus over the past few years shows that 14 gauge stainless spokes were commonly used on the stock wheels. The good news is that any bike shop should have a replacement if that is the same as your spokes. Based on your question and referring to yourself as a novice, I assume you haven't much experience with wheel maintenance and repair. Changing a spoke is not difficult, but if you've never done it, the help of someone with some experience can be helpful as there are things that can go wrong. If the broken spoke is on the drive side rear I'd recommend having the LBS do the work unless you already have the tools or have access to a bike co-op where you can borrow tools and get good advice. Replacing a spoke and truing a wheel should cost $15-$25 at a bike shop assuming there are no other problems. If it is a front or NDS spoke, it is a reasonable DIY project with good information and maybe some help from an experienced friend. Straight gauge spokes run $1-$2 each with nipples and you can get a spoke wrench for about $6.
- Check the wheel for trueness while still on the bike. Lift the affected wheel and give it a spin. Does it wobble side to side at all? Touch a brake pad at one spot in the rotation?
- Examine the wheel for damage. Especially look for tiny cracks where the ends of the broken spoke insert into the rim and hub. Check the other spokes as well.
- Where did the spoke break? Most break at the elbow that inserts into the hub flange. This can be a sign of too little tension on the spoke or the wheel as a whole. Occasionally a spoke will break at the nipple end. I've never seen a spoke fail along its length even with extremely butted racing spokes under high tension.
- I've seen a few spoke replacements done with the tire on by unthreading the spoke from the nipple and reusing the same nipple once the new spoke is laced into place. I prefer to remove the tire and rim strip and use a new nipple with the new spoke. I might change my mind if this was beside a campfire mid-tour rather than in my garage.
- Remove the broken spoke and carefully lace the new spoke into position. You will have to flex the spoke but avoid getting sharp kinks into it. Minor curves in the spoke will straighten as the spoke is tensioned.
- You can use Spoke Prep, anti-seize, or even just a dab of grease on the threads before inserting the spoke end into the nipple.
- Turn the nipple a turn or two at a time until the spoke is at approximately the same tension as the other spokes. You can get a rough estimate by squeezing different spoke pairs together and/or plucking with your fingers or lightly tapping the spokes with a tool to see if you get about the same note.
- There are videos online about how to true a wheel using the brake pads or makeshift indicators (like zip ties on the stays) and a wheel wrench. If you can afford it, it isn't a bad idea to have your wheel trued and tensioned by the LBS at least the first time and then just do minor tune ups yourself until you get some experience.
- You might hear a ping or two the first time you ride on the repaired wheel. It's not unusual as even a properly rebuilt wheel settles in a bit. Just recheck the wheel a couple of times after the first few rides. If the repair and truing were good, all should be well.
- Check the wheel for trueness while still on the bike. Lift the affected wheel and give it a spin. Does it wobble side to side at all? Touch a brake pad at one spot in the rotation?
- Examine the wheel for damage. Especially look for tiny cracks where the ends of the broken spoke insert into the rim and hub. Check the other spokes as well.
- Where did the spoke break? Most break at the elbow that inserts into the hub flange. This can be a sign of too little tension on the spoke or the wheel as a whole. Occasionally a spoke will break at the nipple end. I've never seen a spoke fail along its length even with extremely butted racing spokes under high tension.
- I've seen a few spoke replacements done with the tire on by unthreading the spoke from the nipple and reusing the same nipple once the new spoke is laced into place. I prefer to remove the tire and rim strip and use a new nipple with the new spoke. I might change my mind if this was beside a campfire mid-tour rather than in my garage.
- Remove the broken spoke and carefully lace the new spoke into position. You will have to flex the spoke but avoid getting sharp kinks into it. Minor curves in the spoke will straighten as the spoke is tensioned.
- You can use Spoke Prep, anti-seize, or even just a dab of grease on the threads before inserting the spoke end into the nipple.
- Turn the nipple a turn or two at a time until the spoke is at approximately the same tension as the other spokes. You can get a rough estimate by squeezing different spoke pairs together and/or plucking with your fingers or lightly tapping the spokes with a tool to see if you get about the same note.
- There are videos online about how to true a wheel using the brake pads or makeshift indicators (like zip ties on the stays) and a wheel wrench. If you can afford it, it isn't a bad idea to have your wheel trued and tensioned by the LBS at least the first time and then just do minor tune ups yourself until you get some experience.
- You might hear a ping or two the first time you ride on the repaired wheel. It's not unusual as even a properly rebuilt wheel settles in a bit. Just recheck the wheel a couple of times after the first few rides. If the repair and truing were good, all should be well.
#6
Full Member

Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 366
Likes: 30
From: Siberia West .. aka Central Wisconsin... USA
Bikes: 2000 Litespeed Appalachian, 1998 Litespeed BlueRidge.. 1977? Schwinn LeTour 12.2 'Rain Daze'
My baby!!! My baby!!!! Geez Louise guys I finally did it my specialized sirrus elite has taken beating after beating from her overweight novice owner but every time she's ready to roll. But this time I busted the spoke is there a way to fix this? Or do I need to replace the entire rim? I know it seems cheep of me but I'm in hard times like really rough so I just wanna know can I simplybreplace the spoke or new rIm? I don't wanna not ride tomorrow sad face indeed.
#7
Really Old Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,639
Likes: 1,887
From: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Bikes: 87 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds. 2019 Giant Explore E+3
Looking at bikepedia.com I looked at the 2003, 2009 & 2015 versions of your bike, since you didn't specify a year.
They all used 14 ga. spokes.
Any bike shop should have those, since they are basically "THE" generic spoke.
My LBS charges $1 spoke for those.
BTW, IF the spoke broke in the J bend AND you break another spoke in the relative near future, get the wheel re-spoked.
Spokes are like pop corn. The start off slow and then rapidly increase "popping".
They all used 14 ga. spokes.
Any bike shop should have those, since they are basically "THE" generic spoke.
My LBS charges $1 spoke for those.
BTW, IF the spoke broke in the J bend AND you break another spoke in the relative near future, get the wheel re-spoked.
Spokes are like pop corn. The start off slow and then rapidly increase "popping".
#8
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 648
Likes: 39
Bikes: Canyon, Bowman & Colnago
Just take it to your LBS and ask them to put a new spoke in it. Or better yet, figure out what size/length spoke you need, and learn how to fix it yourself (that way when another spoke breaks you'll know how to remedy the situation and you won't panic). I like to see these annoying incidents as opportunities for learning. Knowledge is power, dude!
Last edited by mrblue; 07-16-15 at 10:05 AM.
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 9,438
Likes: 9
From: Oklahoma
Bikes: Trek 5500, Colnago C-50
If you have both ends of the broken spoke you can measure the length you see what you need. Better still, take it to a bike shop and let them tell you what you need, they may have a replacement.
#12
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
An isolated single broken spoke is not a big deal and can be replaced fairly easily. Without knowing the year of your bike I can't be sure, but a quick look at the specs for a few versions of the Sirrus over the past few years shows that 14 gauge stainless spokes were commonly used on the stock wheels. The good news is that any bike shop should have a replacement if that is the same as your spokes. Based on your question and referring to yourself as a novice, I assume you haven't much experience with wheel maintenance and repair. Changing a spoke is not difficult, but if you've never done it, the help of someone with some experience can be helpful as there are things that can go wrong. If the broken spoke is on the drive side rear I'd recommend having the LBS do the work unless you already have the tools or have access to a bike co-op where you can borrow tools and get good advice. Replacing a spoke and truing a wheel should cost $15-$25 at a bike shop assuming there are no other problems. If it is a front or NDS spoke, it is a reasonable DIY project with good information and maybe some help from an experienced friend. Straight gauge spokes run $1-$2 each with nipples and you can get a spoke wrench for about $6.
- Check the wheel for trueness while still on the bike. Lift the affected wheel and give it a spin. Does it wobble side to side at all? Touch a brake pad at one spot in the rotation?
- Examine the wheel for damage. Especially look for tiny cracks where the ends of the broken spoke insert into the rim and hub. Check the other spokes as well.
- Where did the spoke break? Most break at the elbow that inserts into the hub flange. This can be a sign of too little tension on the spoke or the wheel as a whole. Occasionally a spoke will break at the nipple end. I've never seen a spoke fail along its length even with extremely butted racing spokes under high tension.
- I've seen a few spoke replacements done with the tire on by unthreading the spoke from the nipple and reusing the same nipple once the new spoke is laced into place. I prefer to remove the tire and rim strip and use a new nipple with the new spoke. I might change my mind if this was beside a campfire mid-tour rather than in my garage.
- Remove the broken spoke and carefully lace the new spoke into position. You will have to flex the spoke but avoid getting sharp kinks into it. Minor curves in the spoke will straighten as the spoke is tensioned.
- You can use Spoke Prep, anti-seize, or even just a dab of grease on the threads before inserting the spoke end into the nipple.
- Turn the nipple a turn or two at a time until the spoke is at approximately the same tension as the other spokes. You can get a rough estimate by squeezing different spoke pairs together and/or plucking with your fingers or lightly tapping the spokes with a tool to see if you get about the same note.
- There are videos online about how to true a wheel using the brake pads or makeshift indicators (like zip ties on the stays) and a wheel wrench. If you can afford it, it isn't a bad idea to have your wheel trued and tensioned by the LBS at least the first time and then just do minor tune ups yourself until you get some experience.
- You might hear a ping or two the first time you ride on the repaired wheel. It's not unusual as even a properly rebuilt wheel settles in a bit. Just recheck the wheel a couple of times after the first few rides. If the repair and truing were good, all should be well.
- Check the wheel for trueness while still on the bike. Lift the affected wheel and give it a spin. Does it wobble side to side at all? Touch a brake pad at one spot in the rotation?
- Examine the wheel for damage. Especially look for tiny cracks where the ends of the broken spoke insert into the rim and hub. Check the other spokes as well.
- Where did the spoke break? Most break at the elbow that inserts into the hub flange. This can be a sign of too little tension on the spoke or the wheel as a whole. Occasionally a spoke will break at the nipple end. I've never seen a spoke fail along its length even with extremely butted racing spokes under high tension.
- I've seen a few spoke replacements done with the tire on by unthreading the spoke from the nipple and reusing the same nipple once the new spoke is laced into place. I prefer to remove the tire and rim strip and use a new nipple with the new spoke. I might change my mind if this was beside a campfire mid-tour rather than in my garage.
- Remove the broken spoke and carefully lace the new spoke into position. You will have to flex the spoke but avoid getting sharp kinks into it. Minor curves in the spoke will straighten as the spoke is tensioned.
- You can use Spoke Prep, anti-seize, or even just a dab of grease on the threads before inserting the spoke end into the nipple.
- Turn the nipple a turn or two at a time until the spoke is at approximately the same tension as the other spokes. You can get a rough estimate by squeezing different spoke pairs together and/or plucking with your fingers or lightly tapping the spokes with a tool to see if you get about the same note.
- There are videos online about how to true a wheel using the brake pads or makeshift indicators (like zip ties on the stays) and a wheel wrench. If you can afford it, it isn't a bad idea to have your wheel trued and tensioned by the LBS at least the first time and then just do minor tune ups yourself until you get some experience.
- You might hear a ping or two the first time you ride on the repaired wheel. It's not unusual as even a properly rebuilt wheel settles in a bit. Just recheck the wheel a couple of times after the first few rides. If the repair and truing were good, all should be well.
#13
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
Looking at bikepedia.com I looked at the 2003, 2009 & 2015 versions of your bike, since you didn't specify a year.
They all used 14 ga. spokes.
Any bike shop should have those, since they are basically "THE" generic spoke.
My LBS charges $1 spoke for those.
BTW, IF the spoke broke in the J bend AND you break another spoke in the relative near future, get the wheel re-spoked.
Spokes are like pop corn. The start off slow and then rapidly increase "popping".
They all used 14 ga. spokes.
Any bike shop should have those, since they are basically "THE" generic spoke.
My LBS charges $1 spoke for those.
BTW, IF the spoke broke in the J bend AND you break another spoke in the relative near future, get the wheel re-spoked.
Spokes are like pop corn. The start off slow and then rapidly increase "popping".
#14
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
Just take it to your LBS and ask them to put a new spoke in it. Or better yet, figure out what size/length spoke you need, and learn how to fix it yourself (that way when another spoke breaks you'll know how to remedy the situation and you won't panic). I like to see these annoying incidents as opportunities for learning. Knowledge is power, dude!
#15
Really Old Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,639
Likes: 1,887
From: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Bikes: 87 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds. 2019 Giant Explore E+3
thanks I plan on learning all I can I planned on replacing it but it turned out 4 of the spokes needed replacing I saw on YT that if it's one cool if more replace it the lbs said they could fix it and they did wel they got me rolling at least I hear something in there though as the wheel turns but till I can get a better job it'll do
#16
See post #7 about breaking more than 1 spoke.
Repairing and re-truing may be enough, although perhaps other spokes were damaged in the process.
For me, it is easier to just replace broken spokes as needed rather than rebuild a whole wheel.
I've broken and replaced 3 outbound spokes on my front wheel in the last year or so. Popped the spoke heads off at the J. I figure that leaves me about 15 outbound spokes left to go

I'm now at about 6 months and a couple thousand miles on the wheel without broken spokes, including a ride that took me over 150 miles from home (I packed some spares with me for that trip).
Anyway, we'll see how well the popcorn theory holds.








