I want to remove the BB cup on an older BB. Do I turn towards the front of the bike to remove cup? Thanks

It's stamped 1.37 x 24tpi which means English BB. Righty loosey on the right side of the bike, lefty loosey on the left side.

The problem with righty fighty/lefty lucky is that if the wrench handle is not placed as the writer of the statement intended then you do the opposite of what's wanted. Looking at the cup it's clockwise turning of the wrench to remove the drive side in this case. Do we know what clockwise means...? Another way to describe it is that the RH cup unthreads backwards compared to a light bulb's. Now do we understand? Andy.

I see your concern here, but I'll shed a tear of sadness for anyone who assumes that righty tight means to push toward the right on the wrench (no matter what orientation it is in). But maybe I have have an over-inflated faith in people.

I always remember it this way. For pedals, Right is Right(as in normal/correct/standard), left is wrong (as in abnormal), and for English BB's, it's the opposite of pedals.

-Jeremy

Jeremy- You state the point I'm talking about with much ignorance, sorry to be so direct. If the wrench handle is above the work piece and you push it to the right you are loosening left hand threads. If the wrench handle is below the piece and you push to the right you tighten the left hand threaded piece. Now do you see the problem in not really describing the whole picture? Andy

maybe I am too harsh on Jeremy. So many people I come across in my work life (and internet one) only think with one tool reference. But as a shop guy for so many years I know the minute I assume on my customer's view of the world as being mine it will be my fault that when I told him how to fix something and he did the opposite it will be blamed on me. Not on his inability to understand simple rotational directions. Maybe it's the lack of analog clocks in schools. Yes, that's it! It's all the fault of our teachers. Andy (who's trying to make a point with sarcasm and poor humor)

I actually think you misunderstood my post. I knew exactly what you were saying from from the start, as I do in fact understand rotational directions. I was simply saying that I tend to (perhaps wrongly) trust that people would not make the silly mistake of assuming that Righty Tighty means "push to the right". I suppose if we're really concerned with non-mechanical people misunderstanding instructions, you could always say "If you are facing the right side of the bike, you want to turn the volume up on BB to loosen it, and if you're on the left side , turn the volume down to loosen it." Most people know how to work a radio, afterall. That way they won't even need to know clockwise/counterclockwise in order to do it correctly.

-Jeremy

so, towards front of the bike....

...with the wrench above the BB.

For English BB's, I remember it as opposites, or "left is right, and right is left", i.e. the left cup is a right hand (clockwise to tighten) thread, and vice versa. It also works if you start with the threading, e.g. the cup with the left hand thread is on the right. You can't get it backwards, but you do have to understand what left and right hand threads are.

Throwing pedals into the mix above is too confusing for me, so instead of a simple mnemonic trick, I start with a functional premise and reason it out from there. It's based on the old story (or myth) that the thread directions were chosen so the pedals would unscrew if the spindle ever seized while you were pedaling, sparing you from breaking your ankle. Substituting a wrench for your foot, this means that the loosening direction is the rotation you would get if you turned the cranks forward while holding the wrench level (or any other constant angle). Not the simplest to visualize but it's the one I find I have been able to remember the most consistently over the years.

If that BB is english:

Stand in front of the driver side.... imagine how the BB axle moves when you are pedaling, the bearings move in the opposite direction (believe me). The BB cup tights in the same direction than the bearings move. Then obviously lose at the opposite direction... you put your tool and turn it clock wise to lose... or from the back of the bike to the front of the bike.

In italian BB... stand in front of the driver side cup, imagine how the BB moves when you are pedaling, bearings move in the opposite direction. The italian BB lose in the same direction than the ball bearings... that means clock counter wise. To lose the cup you put the tool and turn it from the front of the bike to the back of the bike.

Hope this helps better.

A simple question needing only a simple answer. But as with most threads here, the more people post the further from the truth you get.

Jeremy- I'm glad you do know what my point is. When I reply to posts here I often am writing for others who look for their answers but might not be the OP themselves. I will say that your faith in peoples' ability to follow/understand directions and execute them with their hands is a noble one but often enough not seen in actual life.

I teach various bike mechanical clinics and often watch the students' hands do the opposite of what I direct them to do. This is why I feel the need to be specific to the rotational direction and not just which way to push on a wrench handle. I also use the various rotational direction sayings like "right's right and left's wrong" when talking with people BUT I make sure that they understand I'm not talking about wrench handle pushing. After 40 years of describing to my customers and students I still need to remember that many people never needed to do more then screw in a light bulb before in their life. IMO more and more people have had less and less hands on experiences WRT things mechanical, as the years go by. I've had a few people who I discuss this stuff with suggest that the advent of the digital clock (and radio for that matter) and the interweb produces people with less and less understanding of things like rotational directions.

Thanks for not taking my previously direct comments too personally. Andy.

Stay tuned to see if I actually get the cup off...ohhh, goodness the anticipation.....................

My rule of thumb for BB cups like that is to place the wrench so that it is facing toward the front of the bike. Push down on the wrench. As simple as that

You can always make and use one of Sheldon Brown's fixed cup removal tools.

Tool Tips--Bottom Bracket Cups

It looks like this.



It works really well.

Cheers

Yes it works well, if you rotate it the correct way.

yes.....it wont move at all. I soaked in PB Penetrator. It just wont move. So, I may use this Sheldon Brown fix, or just leave it. I could repack grease and put it all together again without getting the cup out, l think....

Sheldon said NOT to remove the drive side cup unless you're going to replace it. I shine a penlight into the shell after cleaning the cup out with solvents and look for damage such as bad pitting. If the cup is good I just put in new grease, bearings and more grease.

Cheers

Do you take a chance of damaging the race of the cup with the pressure of the washer?

sorry....I did not refresh my browser....you answered my question...

No. The cup is hardened steel; the washer is not. But as you acknowledged later, removal of the fixed cup is not necessary unless you intend to replace it.

I have the fancy version of this, bought it at ebay zillion of years ago, works pretty good

I quess the trick is to get gease in there than load ball bearings. I think a needlenose pliers will do it.

Squirt grease in thru the outside of the cup. You can use a toothpick to reach in and spread it around. If you use a cage for the ballls, pack it full of grease. If you use loose balls, stick em in thru the outside of the cup. Slap some grease on the spindle too.

Much easier than pliers.

It seems you get it by now, but the answer is clockwise.

If you want it out and it's stuck, get an aerosol duster. Turn the can upside down and blast the CUP with the freezing air, don't be shy with it. It will be insanely cold, and if done right will contract the metal of the cup. I've had great luck with this trick.