barrel adjuster problem
#1
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From: Calgary, Alberta
Bikes: Cannondale T-800, Bridgestone RB-1, Bianche Mountain Bike
barrel adjuster problem
Turning the barrel adjuster on the rear brake cable of my older Cannondale touring bike doesn't seem to have any effect. No matter which way I turn the barrel, the cable doesn't appear to lengthen or shorten, and hence, the brake pads don't move either nearer to or farther from the rims. Do these simple adjusters break or perhaps I have turned too much at some previous time and it needs to be "rethreaded"? Do you typically need to replace them over the years? Most important, is there a good site with instructions for learning how to remove, inspect, and repair/replace barrel adjusters? Thanks. I'd rather be riding than posting, but brakes are getting bad!
#2
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From: West Yorkshire, United Kingdom
Your not going to see much movement in the cable, but the adjuster is for adjustment, not setup, and there should be enough movement for tweeking final setup/as needed on the road.
Just saying older Cannondale is a bit vague as well, if asking about a specific part, knowing the brand/model/part number is useful.
Just saying older Cannondale is a bit vague as well, if asking about a specific part, knowing the brand/model/part number is useful.
#3
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
While adjuster barrels can and do break it's not a common happening. But it is pretty simple observation skills that help one figure out if a nut or bolt is moving lengthwise. Andy.
#4
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From: Ontario, Canada
Bikes: iele Latina, Miele Suprema, Miele Uno LS, Miele Miele Beta, MMTB, Bianchi Model Unknown, Fiori Venezia, Fiori Napoli, VeloSport Adamas AX
Turning the barrel adjuster on the rear brake cable of my older Cannondale touring bike doesn't seem to have any effect. No matter which way I turn the barrel, the cable doesn't appear to lengthen or shorten, and hence, the brake pads don't move either nearer to or farther from the rims. Do these simple adjusters break or perhaps I have turned too much at some previous time and it needs to be "rethreaded"? Do you typically need to replace them over the years? Most important, is there a good site with instructions for learning how to remove, inspect, and repair/replace barrel adjusters? Thanks. I'd rather be riding than posting, but brakes are getting bad!
Shimano 600 Brakes ? $45 | Toronto Vintage Bikes
Adjusting the cable was done by HOLDING the barrel asdjuster and turning that round nut with the black rubber ring on it.
An image of your brake would be most helpful in seeing what the problem might be.
Cheers
#5
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Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 124
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From: Calgary, Alberta
Bikes: Cannondale T-800, Bridgestone RB-1, Bianche Mountain Bike
Your not going to see much movement in the cable, but the adjuster is for adjustment, not setup, and there should be enough movement for tweeking final setup/as needed on the road.
Just saying older Cannondale is a bit vague as well, if asking about a specific part, knowing the brand/model/part number is useful.
Just saying older Cannondale is a bit vague as well, if asking about a specific part, knowing the brand/model/part number is useful.
#6
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Calgary, Alberta
Bikes: Cannondale T-800, Bridgestone RB-1, Bianche Mountain Bike
Some of the older brakes had a barrel adjuster AND a nut under it. the nut could be round with a rubber ring on ity like the Shimano N600 such as these.
Shimano 600 Brakes ? $45 | Toronto Vintage Bikes
Adjusting the cable was done by HOLDING the barrel asdjuster and turning that round nut with the black rubber ring on it.
An image of your brake would be most helpful in seeing what the problem might be.
Cheers
Shimano 600 Brakes ? $45 | Toronto Vintage Bikes
Adjusting the cable was done by HOLDING the barrel asdjuster and turning that round nut with the black rubber ring on it.
An image of your brake would be most helpful in seeing what the problem might be.
Cheers
#7
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Note that there are two basic types of barrel adjusters.
1- the barrel is threaded to a stationary part and moves in and out as turned
2- the barrel adjuster slides into an unthreaded part and a threaded ring is turned to move it in and out.
It's possible that you have the latter type and are using it wrong.
1- the barrel is threaded to a stationary part and moves in and out as turned
2- the barrel adjuster slides into an unthreaded part and a threaded ring is turned to move it in and out.
It's possible that you have the latter type and are using it wrong.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by FBinNY; 04-20-16 at 05:20 PM.
#8
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From: Calgary, Alberta
Bikes: Cannondale T-800, Bridgestone RB-1, Bianche Mountain Bike
Note that there are two basic types of barrel adjusters.
1- the barrel is threaded to a stationary part and moves in and out as turned
2- the barrel adjuster slides into an unthreaded part and a threaded ring is turned to move it in and out.
It's possible that you have the latter type and are using it wrong.
1- the barrel is threaded to a stationary part and moves in and out as turned
2- the barrel adjuster slides into an unthreaded part and a threaded ring is turned to move it in and out.
It's possible that you have the latter type and are using it wrong.
#9
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
There's every chance in the world that I'm using it wrong, but my "simple observation skills" tell me that I can turn the adjuster clockwise for ten minutes and nothing visible will happen. Then I can turn the adjuster anti-clockwise for twenty minutes and still nothing visible will happen. It never comes to a "stop". Not even the amount of metal ferrel (?) showing at both ends of the plastic barrel changes. If I hold the brake lever down, I can't turn the barrel adjuster either way. That's why I thought the mechanism itself might be broken, or that I had previously unscrewed something inside beyond the point of no return. I really don't know how the mechanism works in order to shorten or lengthen the cable. (or have that effect, anyway). I can take it to my LBS or I can buy a replacement and take this adjuster out and dissect it to understand how the mechanism works, but like I said, I'd rather be riding! But I'm still optimistic that I'll get the understanding I need from Bike Forum.
It's entirely possible that you're missing one part of a two part adjuster.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#10
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 124
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From: Calgary, Alberta
Bikes: Cannondale T-800, Bridgestone RB-1, Bianche Mountain Bike
Okay. I hadn't thought about how many different things qualify as "barrel adjusters"!!! I don't get out much, I guess. The ones I have look very much (but not exactly) like the SRAM ones for sale on Amazon or like the ones being installed in the YouTube video.
https://www.amazon.ca/Indexed-Inline...lnk-ca-c230-20 or https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2zUhwdXj7wc
My Cannondale has the same type of barrel adjusters on the front and rear derailleur cables as it has on the brake cables. I don't understand how they work and, hence, if they ARE working. Wouldn't there be a "stop" somewhere as you turn the adjuster, and you couldn't go any farther? Or is it possible to go TOO far in turning and "unthread/disengage" what ever mechanism is inside the plastic barrel? The barrel adjusters that are often used on bikes near the brakes make sense to me -- a threaded bolt with a nut that moves up against a fixed piece of metal. But how do MY inline barrel adjusters work?
https://www.amazon.ca/Indexed-Inline...lnk-ca-c230-20 or https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2zUhwdXj7wc
My Cannondale has the same type of barrel adjusters on the front and rear derailleur cables as it has on the brake cables. I don't understand how they work and, hence, if they ARE working. Wouldn't there be a "stop" somewhere as you turn the adjuster, and you couldn't go any farther? Or is it possible to go TOO far in turning and "unthread/disengage" what ever mechanism is inside the plastic barrel? The barrel adjusters that are often used on bikes near the brakes make sense to me -- a threaded bolt with a nut that moves up against a fixed piece of metal. But how do MY inline barrel adjusters work?
#11
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
The adjuster you linked is an inline type. It's basically a turnbuckle of sorts. Turning the whole thing does absolutely nothing You have to turn the central barrel while holding one end (or both) so it doesn't turn also. Usually friction against the housing holds it for you and turning the middle is all it takes, but if the threads are dry or corroded, the thread friction may be more than the end friction so you need to take charge.
Yes, there is no stop per se. At one end it bottoms out and you can't go farther, but at the other end, you can continue until you run out of thread and the part disengages. If you go too far and disengage, it's not too hard to line it up and get it started again, but it does take a bit of conscious effort.
Yes, there is no stop per se. At one end it bottoms out and you can't go farther, but at the other end, you can continue until you run out of thread and the part disengages. If you go too far and disengage, it's not too hard to line it up and get it started again, but it does take a bit of conscious effort.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#12
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 124
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From: Calgary, Alberta
Bikes: Cannondale T-800, Bridgestone RB-1, Bianche Mountain Bike
The adjuster you linked is an inline type. It's basically a turnbuckle of sorts. Turning the whole thing does absolutely nothing You have to turn the central barrel while holding one end (or both) so it doesn't turn also. Usually friction against the housing holds it for you and turning the middle is all it takes, but if the threads are dry or corroded, the thread friction may be more than the end friction so you need to take charge.
Yes, there is no stop per se. At one end it bottoms out and you can't go farther, but at the other end, you can continue until you run out of thread and the part disengages. If you go too far and disengage, it's not too hard to line it up and get it started again, but it does take a bit of conscious effort.
Yes, there is no stop per se. At one end it bottoms out and you can't go farther, but at the other end, you can continue until you run out of thread and the part disengages. If you go too far and disengage, it's not too hard to line it up and get it started again, but it does take a bit of conscious effort.
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