BB cable mounting guides... types?
#1
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Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Bozeman
Bikes: 199? Landshark Roadshark, 198? Mondonico Diamond, 1987 Panasonic DX-5000, 1987 Bianchi Limited, Univega... Chrome..., 1989 Schwinn Woodlands, Motobecane USA Record, Raleigh Tokul 2
BB cable mounting guides... types?
Hi all.
Recently I've been looking for a specific type of cable guide for my BB. My bike has cables that go back both chainstays (IGH bike with hub brake.)
I've seen a bike that had 3 cable routing paths on the cable guide. One for the drive side, and two for the NDS. One went to a typical front derailleur mounting location, the other one led back to the NDS chainstay.
I really don't know what to search for, nor can I find a picture of the aforementioned cable guide.
Can anybody help me out?
EDIT: Oh and the reason I'm not satisfied with the normal 2 slot cable guide is that the NDS cable doesn't run smoothly through it since it's not supposed to go that way. The cable catches on the side of the guide slot. Sure, I could just file it away, but considering the guides are so cheap I may as well buy one.
EDIT2: After searching through a few pages of google images, I found a picture of what I need. However if you go to the linked page, it takes you to a different type of cable guide. (on amazon.co.uk, which is pretty much useless for me anyway.)
Recently I've been looking for a specific type of cable guide for my BB. My bike has cables that go back both chainstays (IGH bike with hub brake.)
I've seen a bike that had 3 cable routing paths on the cable guide. One for the drive side, and two for the NDS. One went to a typical front derailleur mounting location, the other one led back to the NDS chainstay.
I really don't know what to search for, nor can I find a picture of the aforementioned cable guide.
Can anybody help me out?
EDIT: Oh and the reason I'm not satisfied with the normal 2 slot cable guide is that the NDS cable doesn't run smoothly through it since it's not supposed to go that way. The cable catches on the side of the guide slot. Sure, I could just file it away, but considering the guides are so cheap I may as well buy one.
EDIT2: After searching through a few pages of google images, I found a picture of what I need. However if you go to the linked page, it takes you to a different type of cable guide. (on amazon.co.uk, which is pretty much useless for me anyway.)
Last edited by corrado33; 06-02-16 at 03:42 PM.
#2
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,571
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From: Oxnard, CA
Bikes: 2009 Fuji Roubaix RC; 2011 Fuji Cross 2.0; '92 Diamond Back Ascent EX
#3
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Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
The imaged guide is meant for a brake cable, in addition to the two gear ones. The third tunnel is centered between the gear guides as a under the chain stay brake has it's cable usually running to the center of the caliper/arms (as in a roller cam or u brake). Whether said guide will locate the hub brake cable's path well and not contact the tire remains to be found out.
It's not hard to come up with alternative cable routing devices. Short lengths of casings zip tied to the DT and stays is but one simple option. Andy.
It's not hard to come up with alternative cable routing devices. Short lengths of casings zip tied to the DT and stays is but one simple option. Andy.
#4
There are solutions for mounting full length housings to the frame. If your downtube is between 28.6 and 31.8mm, these cable clips work nicely. They are available for other tube sizes as well, but I don't have any of those.

Alternatively, I have used zip ties, but I don't just wrap a tie around the cable and the tube and call it good.
Before tightening the tie down, pass a smaller tie around the loop between the tube and the casing. Tighten down the small zip tie, creating a standoff between the two. Then fully tighten both zip ties together. Makes a neat, tidy and secure mounting.

Alternatively, I have used zip ties, but I don't just wrap a tie around the cable and the tube and call it good.
Before tightening the tie down, pass a smaller tie around the loop between the tube and the casing. Tighten down the small zip tie, creating a standoff between the two. Then fully tighten both zip ties together. Makes a neat, tidy and secure mounting.
#5
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 4,094
Likes: 2
From: Bozeman
Bikes: 199? Landshark Roadshark, 198? Mondonico Diamond, 1987 Panasonic DX-5000, 1987 Bianchi Limited, Univega... Chrome..., 1989 Schwinn Woodlands, Motobecane USA Record, Raleigh Tokul 2
The imaged guide is meant for a brake cable, in addition to the two gear ones. The third tunnel is centered between the gear guides as a under the chain stay brake has it's cable usually running to the center of the caliper/arms (as in a roller cam or u brake). Whether said guide will locate the hub brake cable's path well and not contact the tire remains to be found out.
It's not hard to come up with alternative cable routing devices. Short lengths of casings zip tied to the DT and stays is but one simple option. Andy.
It's not hard to come up with alternative cable routing devices. Short lengths of casings zip tied to the DT and stays is but one simple option. Andy.
In reality, I don't need a 3 path one. I just need a two path one where both paths are pointed toward the chainstays and not toward the middle for a front derailleur mounting. I've actually found a few of those as well, so that's probably what I'll end up going with. I do like the idea of pieces of cable housing, although I'd guess that the cable would prematurely wear through the housing because of the location and odd forces on the housing. (A lot of compression between the actual cable and BB would probably cause the housing to wear unevenly. I'm only guessing though.) And I'd think that the housings down there would get very dirty, pretty quickly.
I think that both the hub brake and internal hub are meant for full length housings, but I've really just never had good luck with them, so I try to avoid very long housing runs.
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