Please excuse me if this has already been discussed, but I have read many related threads and questions still remain. I want to build up an old Pinarello team bike frame (this is my best guess from my other thread https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...e-mystery.html). I bought it off eBay many years ago, but no info. survives from that transaction. The frame came with a Stronglight headset and Campy BB, which is etched "36 x 24F" (photo attached). The BB shell measures 28 mm wide. I was able to remove the BB's non-drive/left side lockring and adjustable cup, but the drive side cup is stuck and withstood my efforts using a cone wrench and then Sheldon Brown's homemade bolt/nut tool (after a thorough dousing with Liquid Wrench). So I am going to resort other methods (heat and/or bench vise), but want to confirm whether I am working with English or Italian threading. I assumed Italian based on vintage/make of the frame and etching on the BB cup noted above, but I also came across a discussion thread that concluded that a 28 mm BB shell was definitely English threaded unless it was reworked (an unlikely event). So now I am confused, due to my inexperience and unfamiliarity with lingo (e.g., when one says "left-threaded" or "right-threaded" is one talking about the direction in which to tighten or loosen?). Many thanks for any assistance you can provide.

You turning that the right direction?

If it's Italian, I believe it is right-hand threads. Since it gives you the diameter and pitch with NO modifiers afterwards, that would mean it's right-hand threaded, just like the non-drive side is. French and Italian threading are both like this.

36 x 24 is Italian Threading. You probably mean that the BB shell is 68 mm wide. Italian BB shells are usually 70mm but with facing and measurement errors yours could look like it's 68. There is no reason to believe that this BB is anything other than Italian.

The cup loosens by turning it counter clockwise, same as the adjustable cup. Good luck.

I gather it is common to use a threadlocker on an Italian fixed cup. A bit of heat to loosen the threadlocker might be a good idea - a heat gun might be safest, don't scorch the paint.

Quite common indeed back when.
Sick & tired of so called "fixed" cups on Ital BBs backing out I've known mechanics to use Loctite blue or even red as a last ditch "solution" to that problem.

Using the correct orientation and tool for removal a well stuck Ital BB is likely corroded in place or had thread locker applied, or both.

-Bandera

36 x 24F is indeed Italian thread, so the cup will loosen counter-clockwise. Italian and French thread fixed cups tend to be installed very tight to resist precession forces that would loosen the cup.

Those Nuovo Record cups with the recessed face don't always work well with the Sheldon Brown tool because there's less surface for the tool to grip the cup. You may need to find a shop with the Campagnolo #793/A tool or Var #30 tool to get that cup out.

Yes, my mistake, I meant 68mm. I measured it precisely using vernier calipers. It actually came in at 68.5mm.

Shell width is only very loosely correlated with thread specification, for a number of reasons. Using the specification marked on the cups installed in the shell (36 x 24F, in your case) is reliable.

Many thanks again to JDT and others for your help here. Not willing to admit defeat, I got my hands a VAR #30 tool, can of heavy duty rust penetrator, small sledge hammer and a block of wood, and I did it! After several hits to no effect, I slowly realized I needed to change my angle of attack with the sledge to a down stroke to get more torque on the tool handle. Onward!