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1980's Specialized Expedition Headset Size

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Old 09-29-16 | 01:44 PM
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1980's Specialized Expedition Headset Size

There is some damage to the headset bearing races on this bike and so I would like to replace them. The problem is that no one seems to know if it has a JIS or ISO headset. I'm on an extended tour, so taking the headset apart to measure everything would be a pain, plus I would have to buy a dial caliper. Also, how would I determine what "stack height" this bikes headset has?
When I had the headset apart to investigate the looseness in it last week I wrote down and photographed the parts and the numbers on them. It is a 1" by 24 TPI Tange Seiki Levin NL500 threaded headset. There are a couple of Tange NL500 headsets for sale on eBay, but one has a JIS crown race and the other an ISO, so it appears that the NL500 was made in different sizes. I've called Harris cyclery and they don't know what size I should get either.
I'm hoping some forum member has replaced a headset on a vintage Expedition and could let me know what size theirs was. Since this bike was only made for a few years I'm hoping they would all be the same size.
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Old 09-29-16 | 02:03 PM
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Bike most likely made in Japan during that era, comes with Japanese components and a Japanese headset, my guess would be JIS headset.

Now I will let the real experts weight in about stack height.
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Old 09-29-16 | 02:03 PM
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Where's the damage?
You might be able to reposition the races, swap the balls, or some other kluge to mitigate the damage.
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Old 09-29-16 | 02:06 PM
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The Velo Orange headset's bottom race fits both sizes.
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Old 09-29-16 | 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by sreynolds1977
There is some damage to the headset bearing races on this bike and so I would like to replace them. The problem is that no one seems to know if it has a JIS or ISO headset. I'm on an extended tour, so taking the headset apart to measure everything would be a pain, plus I would have to buy a dial caliper.
Well, if you're planning to replace it you're going to have to remove it at some point, right? May as well be now. And you can get a cheap, but functional vernier caliper for $3 at Harbor Freight:



6" Utility Caliper

Also, how would I determine what "stack height" this bikes headset has?
You measure the thickness of the cups and races (with the bearings in place, and excluding the flanges that insert into the frame) and add that to the thickness of the locknut and any washers or spacers.

But if you're replacing your current headset, the more important measure is how much stack your frame and fork can accommodate. Remove all the cups and races from the frame (remember, you're planning on replacing them anyway), put the fork through the head tube so the crown race seat (where the crown race would sit, if it were still installed) snug against the lower edge of the head tube, then measure how far the steer tube extends above the top of the head tube. That measure is the tallest stack height your bike can use. You can use a shorter headset and simply add washers or spacers to take up the slack.

When I had the headset apart to investigate the looseness in it last week I wrote down and photographed the parts and the numbers on them. It is a 1" by 24 TPI Tange Seiki Levin NL500 threaded headset. There are a couple of Tange NL500 headsets for sale on eBay, but one has a JIS crown race and the other an ISO, so it appears that the NL500 was made in different sizes. I've called Harris cyclery and they don't know what size I should get either.
No, I'm afraid you're going to have to measure your crown race seat as most Tange headset are available in both ISO and JIS dimensions. Otherwise, you can simply buy a headset with an ISO crown race, and if it turns out to be the wrong size, take the fork to your LBS and have them mill the race seat to ISO spec. It's not a big job and shouldn't cost much.
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Old 09-29-16 | 04:04 PM
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Thanks for the replies so far. As mentioned I'm on a tour away from home, so taking it apart to measure components then putting it back together so I'll have transportation while I wait for parts would be a pain, but maybe it's something I'll have to do. Still hoping someone on the forum has replaced these parts on an expedition and knows what size they are. The races are not too bad, i can ride it as is for a while if need be.
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Old 09-29-16 | 04:43 PM
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Buy both and gift the one you don't need to a shop along your route.
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Old 09-29-16 | 07:10 PM
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You should be able to buy the crown race separate. Order the headset in one size and an extra crown race in the other.
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Old 09-30-16 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by sreynolds1977
...while I wait for parts would be a pain, but maybe it's something I'll have to do....
Just buy the Velo Orange, has a split crown race that fits both sizes and sealed bearings. It'll fit just fine and you'll have a sealed bearing headset with easily replaceable bearings.

Grand Cru 1" Sealed Bearing Headset - Headsets - Components
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Old 09-30-16 | 10:33 AM
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what We do here , for touring cyclists having parts needs that are not in stock , its a small town,
is for something that is not totally stopping the rider..

is Call Head 2 days ride down the road to the next shop down the coast they run the overnight shipped special order.

and it will be in their shop when the rider arrives.. [this is what happens for people on Campag equipped bikes]

Perhaps you learned how Poste Restante, USPS General Delivery works?

Have it sent to Yourself, to a Post office ahead of you on your route.

Estimate where, by the shipping time versus your daily miles covered.




./.
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Old 10-01-16 | 06:23 PM
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I bought a metal digital caliper at Harbor Freight for $10 using one of their super coupons, so I will measure the parts and report back in a day or two. The Velo Orange headset is nice, but a little to pricey for me.
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Old 10-02-16 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr IGH
Just buy the Velo Orange, has a split crown race that fits both sizes and sealed bearings. It'll fit just fine and you'll have a sealed bearing headset with easily replaceable bearings.

Grand Cru 1" Sealed Bearing Headset - Headsets - Components
A good solution provided the OP's steer tube allows 42mm of stack. OP mentions the current unit is a Levin NL500, which has 30.3mm stack. It's possible the steer tube is longer, and the additional space taken up by spacers, but the OP should measure to be certain.

Last edited by JohnDThompson; 10-02-16 at 05:21 PM.
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Old 10-02-16 | 06:05 PM
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I pulled the headset apart today and found that I did not need any measuring tools at all. Stamped on the underside of the crown race next to "Tange Seiki Levin" was the number "26.4". Similarly, when I removed one of the head tube races the number 30.2 was stamped on the side of it that was inside the head tube. Who knew?
I went ahead and calipered the parts anyway and the crown race bearing boss was 26.5mm and the head tube inside dimension 30.2mm.
Stack was 12.2mm for the lower bearing set and 31.8mm for the upper. Of the 31.8mm, 7.5mm is occupied by two washers and the front brake cable hanger. So that seems to indicate that the maximum stack height of the new headset can't exceed 36.5mm.
Now that I know my specs I'll start looking for a suitable replacement headset.

Last edited by sreynolds1977; 10-02-16 at 06:15 PM.
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Old 10-02-16 | 06:17 PM
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The Velo Orange headset will work with either a JIS or ISO crown, but the crown isn't the only sizing difference between JIS and ISO headsets. JIS cups are 30.0 mm in diameter. ISO cups are 30.2 mm. Some people say you can press ISO cups into a JIS head tube, but my experience is that it's not ideal. It can take a whole lot of force to jam an ISO cup into a JIS head tube -- potentially enough to damage the cup or even the frame.

The VO site identifies their cups as EC30, which is ISO. The SHIS size for JIS cups would be EC29.
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Old 10-02-16 | 06:48 PM
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I run the VO headset without a washer. it's ~38mm stack, works fine for OP's bike. I never knew about the ISO vs JIS cups, explains why I had an issue once.
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Old 10-05-16 | 12:14 PM
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I ordered a Tange Levin NJS ISO headset yesterday and I'll post back when I receive and install it. Thanks for all the suggestions.
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Old 10-05-16 | 01:19 PM
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Make a Headset press with ... all thread rod, a bunch of nuts and some flat washers . common hardware store stuff.
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Old 10-05-16 | 07:10 PM
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The old ones came out and went back in quite easily with some light taps from a hammer and punch. I'll probably try putting the new ones in with a hammer and a block of wood. if they are too tight for that method I'll use the threaded rod trick. Thanks for the suggestion.
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Old 10-09-16 | 02:32 AM
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Tange Levin NJS headset came in, I should get to it later today.
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Old 10-09-16 | 02:45 AM
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Some photos from earlier in the thread. I kept getting error messages when I tried to upload them. They went through ok this time.
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Old 10-09-16 | 06:18 PM
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Installed the new headset today and all is well. The stack height was nearly identical as the old headset. I posted a pic of the instructions, check out section 3-D, then look at Tange's drawing and tell me what's wrong. I installed the bearings with the retainers facing down.
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Old 10-09-16 | 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by sreynolds1977
I posted a pic of the instructions, check out section 3-D, then look at Tange's drawing and tell me what's wrong. I installed the bearings with the retainers facing down.
Well, it appears you did as the instructions direct, but I don't think that's right.

The open mouths of the retainers should face "out," i.e., the lower one facing down and the upper one facing up. Toward the center of the frame head tube, where the bearings contact outer races (races=the cups pressed into the head tube), you should see an alternating pattern of bearing / retainer segment / bearing / retainer segment. Toward the inner races (the crown race on the fork, and the 1st "nut" to go over the steering column), you should see just balls, with the edge of the retainer around their outer circumference.

Last edited by Broctoon; 10-09-16 at 06:59 PM.
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Old 10-10-16 | 03:05 AM
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The instructions say to have the balls facing up, but the illustration shows them oriented as you describe. I tried them with the cages facing the cups, but the cages seemed to rub on the cups that way. The steering feels silly smooth assembled with the balls facing up, also that is how they were oriented when I disassembled the headset the first time.
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