I've been thinking about doing a drop bar conversion on an old fully rigid mountain bike.

I'd like to do this for cheap (initially) so thought I'd not get new shifters and just run as a single speed right away. On the front I imagine I can just remove the derailleur. I guess I'd like to keep the rear one on for chain tension. Can I adjust it to a specific gear without a cable pulling on it?

What would the cheapest way to keep the ability to shift on such a bike after drop bar conversion?

I am aware that brakes can be an issue as well. Is it right that I could put on these Tektro RL520 levers that are made for mtb v-brakes and be done with it?

This is the bike I have that I could convert. I'm concerned about the stem. It seems a shorter stem would be better to put a drop bar on. I may try to find a cheap CL bike to work on.

If you're leaving the rear mech connected as a tensioner, you might consider keeping the front too. The front derailleur makes chain retention failures less annoying.

Yes, by adjusting the limiter screws.

If you have vertical dropouts, yes.

If you have horizontal dropouts, you could probably just ditch the derailleurs and use the wheel's position in the dropouts to tension the chain.

Yes, RL520 is made specifically for this. I have a pair, and they seem to work great.

On your bike, I'd think bar-end shifters might be the simplest way to go.

ALTERNATELY: If you're willing to make a bigger initial investment and you want brifters, you could pick up some brifters that are compatible with your drivetrain and then use these to make your brakes work.

Definitely.

There's a good thread in C&V about this subject: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...nversions.html

I'm another happy customer.

Thanks for the replies. I guess that stem is my biggest concern.

Wow there are some really nice looking bikes in the vintage MTB Drop Bar thread.

I'm in the process of doing this, the C&V thread is a great inspiration.

For the stem issue, have you looked at sticking an threadless stem on it, you can get converters like this BBB Cycling : Bike parts which let you run a threadless stem with a threaded headset, which gives you far more options for stems than are available in quill.

I was not aware of anything like this. I don't know much about stems to start with.

So if I understand this correctly, I remove the current stem and put something like this in its place:
https://www.amazon.com/Profile-Desig...stem+converter

And then that gives me the ability to put one of these on, which is where I have more options than the single piece quill stem that is currently on there?
Threadless Road | Jenson USA (Page 1 of 2)

Yep, the Profile is the same, just a different brand, if you go down this option, make sure you get the correct size, as headsets were often 1", but some are 1 1/8th"

As was mentioned, there is a very long-standing thread on this very topic, over in the C&V forum. Start there - it's hundreds of pages and many many pictures and ideas.

There are a number of shorter-reach quill stems that work well for drop-bar conversion, without resorting to a threadless adapter. Search that forum for "stem" and you'll get lots of hits.

I can't quite tell by the photo of the Fisher, but it looks like it may have a 1 1/8" threaded fork. Look for an Origin8 adapter with a shim for 1 1/8".

Rather than drop Bars consider trekking bars ? you get to Keep all your bike control Levers then,

saving a big pile of Money vs buying all the drop bar conversion required parts.

some parts are incompatible with drop bars My bike has those: WB Bicycle Gallery: Robert Clark's Koga Miyata WTR

Grip-Shifter and brake levers only fit 22.2 tube bars ..

I have trekking bars on one MTB - is it possible to get them through an old MTB stem? I never even tried. An adapter and threadless stem are likely still needed.

Likely .. yea not universal . Case By Case .. FWIW the Italian ITM on that specific bar in the picture foresaw that

center Yoke comes apart to be re assembled in such a stem, ..

old road stems were narrower on the bottom of the bar clamp, so with the stem off the bike
the narrow side faced the axis of the bend radius , and were easy to get around Bar Bends ..




'/,

Many steel drop bars have the same diameter as an MTB bar and some people use a steel drop bar but switch out the brake lever clamps on regular drop bar brake levers for the smaller diameter ones needed for a steel drop bar. Those people often mount their MTB thumb shifters on the top of the steel drop bar.

Cheers