Hi! I removed the bottom bracket from a cruiser I recently got and found that it's the kind that has bb's that I'd assume you'd lubricate like a hub. However, the housing ring the bb's would go in is bent so it's no longer straight, so I'd like to replace it with something that would work better.
I've spent a lot of time reading about bottom brackets, so thanks for all the info here. I've determined that I need a 68 x 110.5 mm. And there's also a piece that says 137x24t which I read is the threading.
My questions are, can I buy the kind of bearings that need to be lubricated again, or should I go with a sealed bearing? And do I need to replace everything? The bottom bracket was somewhat difficult to get into because it had rust, and there was some dirt or sand and no lubrication.
I also attached a picture so hopefully my post makes some sense. Thank you very much!

1.37 x 24 is indeed the threading RH , Drive side cup and the frame is left Hand threaded .

You May find a Shimano UN Type cartridge BB .. the longest spindle offered is 127.5mm.

Measure the Spindle length and compare .. they are about $20 ..





With heavy Grease* The Bearing Balls will stick in the grease long enough to assemble the existing Assembly

No reason to re use old bearings they will not cost Much for new ones .
* auto hub grease .. that for boat trailer hubs is better water resistant..




'/,

Actually there's no need for either the bearing ring press in lip or the fingered bearing retainer (I hope these terms make sense). 11 loose balls will fill the cups properly and FB's suggestion of using grease as a "glue" to hold the balls in place during assembly is the usual method. Grease up the frame shell and threading. Grease should get squeezed out on assembly (that way you know you have enough). The RH cup needs to be VERY tightly installed. Place the RH crank arm on the spindle after initial BB assembly and use it as a lever to determine bearing adjustment with.


Or just get a sealed unit. Andy.

Dump the ball cages and you can usually add an extra ball bearing to each side.
The cages just speed up manufacture at the factory.

I have good luck using one of those retractable magnets sold in auto parts store for holding my bearing together while assembling.

Is this "housing ring" you refer to perhaps the retainer that holds the balls in place? If so, it is not essential, but only a convenience for the bike manufacturer's assembly process. You can repack the bottom bracket using loose balls (and possible add a ball or two to improve load bearing) as long as the other parts are still in serviceable condition.

The photos show two possible rings at play. First is the very common ball retainer with it's fingers separating the balls from each other. used for assembly speed. The other is the lipped press in one in the cup that holds the first retainer ring (with it's balls) in the cup. This is also not at all needed. Andy.

I see 9 loose balls.
Assuming you currently have 9/side, just go buy 22 NEW 1/4" balls.
Use lotsa grease, as suggested, and you now have 11 NEW balls supporting the spindle.

It's "the" common procedure for our own bikes. (for those that haven't gone to cartridge BB's for some, sometimes good, reason)

Those rings don't really need to be straight, anyways. As long as it doesn't scrape on the axle or cup, it can be just about any shape. I've bent a few of them back into shape when working on cheap bikes, never had an issue.

Thanks for all the advice. If I don't have to replace anything, I'll just grease everything up and put it back together this afternoon.
I'm glad to know that the retainer isn't necessary. I was worried because when I tried to ride the bike, it made some creaky noise, but not having any lubrication would cause that I believe. I'm glad there doesn't appear to be any crazy pitting, or other damage to everything. I'll let you know how assembly and riding it goes. Thanks again!