C&V - Click in Bottom Bracket
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C&V - Click in Bottom Bracket
'84 Super Course. Stock bottom bracket, 52x42 chain rings. The BB spindle appears to be about 150mm total length.
This morning, I began hearing a pronounced "click" each time the pedal passed over top dead center. Later the click would be slightly past TDC, but it did seem to coincide with the crank revolution.
Pulled the crank off this morning and inspected the bearings and retainer rings, and I THINK I may have found the problem. One of the bearing retainer tabs had lifted and cracked slightly (too small to see in the photo below). I'm guessing this is the source of the noise.
Could not feel any bumps, scratches or divots in either bearing race. So I suppose I'll just replace both bearing sets, re-pack it all with grease and give it another go, hoping I just got a bad bearing/retainer set.
Wondering at the cause. DB
This morning, I began hearing a pronounced "click" each time the pedal passed over top dead center. Later the click would be slightly past TDC, but it did seem to coincide with the crank revolution.
Pulled the crank off this morning and inspected the bearings and retainer rings, and I THINK I may have found the problem. One of the bearing retainer tabs had lifted and cracked slightly (too small to see in the photo below). I'm guessing this is the source of the noise.
Could not feel any bumps, scratches or divots in either bearing race. So I suppose I'll just replace both bearing sets, re-pack it all with grease and give it another go, hoping I just got a bad bearing/retainer set.
Wondering at the cause. DB
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First- The BB spindle length is measured from the tapered flats ends, not also including the threaded studs' lengths. I suspect that this means that the actual spindle length is around 122 to 127 in length.
The cracked and miss positioned retainer ring tab could be the cause of the tick. But there are many other possible causes. Some which with a proper reassembly will be taken care of. Loose cups in shell, loose arms on spindle, old/washed out grease, worn/bad bearing ball, worn/bad cup race surface, worn/bad spindle bearing surface.
Some possibilities are not BB related. Like pedals, chain ring bolts, ring tooth bent, seat/post creak, crank arm/spider arm swedging loosness and more.
I'd reassemble all with new loose balls, plenty of grease in the bearings and cup/shell interfaces, and do an initial ride then recheck all. Then after a few more rides the truth will be in the pudding. Does the click return as the grease gets pushed out of the bearing area and the surface condition's pitting show again? Was it only a loose crank arm or cup in shell? let us know. Andy.
The cracked and miss positioned retainer ring tab could be the cause of the tick. But there are many other possible causes. Some which with a proper reassembly will be taken care of. Loose cups in shell, loose arms on spindle, old/washed out grease, worn/bad bearing ball, worn/bad cup race surface, worn/bad spindle bearing surface.
Some possibilities are not BB related. Like pedals, chain ring bolts, ring tooth bent, seat/post creak, crank arm/spider arm swedging loosness and more.
I'd reassemble all with new loose balls, plenty of grease in the bearings and cup/shell interfaces, and do an initial ride then recheck all. Then after a few more rides the truth will be in the pudding. Does the click return as the grease gets pushed out of the bearing area and the surface condition's pitting show again? Was it only a loose crank arm or cup in shell? let us know. Andy.
#3
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I agree with Andrew that the cause is likely something other than what you discovered. The fact that you found a problem with the retainer ring does not mean that it has anything to do with the click. There has to be a mechanical link between a symptom and a possible cause, and there is not in this case. A bearing retainer does nothing but hold the balls a distance away from each other and ease assembly. It is under absolutely no stress once the bearing is assembled. The tabs could all magically disappear and the bearings would be unaffected, as the cup and cone are holding the bearings in place at that point. Further, the balls rotate between the cup and cone, causing the retainer to rotate, so any one point of the retainer is moving at all times. That makes a click that coincides with crank revolutions not a likely link to the retainer.
I have seen quite a few recent posts where BB clicks are presumed to originate with the BB bearing. That may be due to confusion related to BB types, as the more recent external bearings have different points of stress, and the bearing interfaces with the frame may indeed cause clicking. That's not true for traditional cup and cone. I won't say clicking is never related to the bearing itself in cup/cone, but other causes should be investigated first. Usually bearing problems are a lower pitch, and felt as well as heard.
I have seen quite a few recent posts where BB clicks are presumed to originate with the BB bearing. That may be due to confusion related to BB types, as the more recent external bearings have different points of stress, and the bearing interfaces with the frame may indeed cause clicking. That's not true for traditional cup and cone. I won't say clicking is never related to the bearing itself in cup/cone, but other causes should be investigated first. Usually bearing problems are a lower pitch, and felt as well as heard.
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Thank you both. I admire and appreciate your experience . . . . and your willingness to share the wisdom of that experience. We all have our own areas of expertise. This area clearly belongs to you.
New caged bearings arrive tomorrow. Since I've already paid for them, I guess I'll throw them on. After reading the above, I'd have been inclined to deal with the extra fiddle of installing loose bearings instead.
Also saw a brief video this morning on replacing spindle/bearing assemblies with a one-piece bottom bracket assembly. Hmm. :-) Anyway, thanks again. Duane Behrens
New caged bearings arrive tomorrow. Since I've already paid for them, I guess I'll throw them on. After reading the above, I'd have been inclined to deal with the extra fiddle of installing loose bearings instead.
Also saw a brief video this morning on replacing spindle/bearing assemblies with a one-piece bottom bracket assembly. Hmm. :-) Anyway, thanks again. Duane Behrens
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New 1/4" x 9 bearings (retainer ring) are on and all is re-assembled. Adjusted the RD and FD and went for a quick ride around our neighborhood.
I don't hear or feel the click anymore. Will take it for 2 long and steep climbs in the morning; we'll see. Thanks for checking in.
I don't hear or feel the click anymore. Will take it for 2 long and steep climbs in the morning; we'll see. Thanks for checking in.
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Didn't feel all that well this morning, but managed a brief 12 miles with a 1200 foot climb at the end. The click does seem to be gone. So it does seem to have been the cracked and lifted tang on that bearing retainer ring. Can't say for sure. But it IS quiet again, and it cost next to nothing and less than an hour to make it that way.
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