installing a BB without bearing retainers?
#1
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Bikes: 1996 LeMond Yellow Jersey, 2013 Soma Saga, 1980 Zebrakenko Wind, 1980 Nishiki Ultimate
installing a BB without bearing retainers?
Took my 1983 Raleigh Olympian and put a newer BB and Sugino crank from a 1988 Giant into it. Lately i've been having some problems with the spindle being a little loose, & weird pedaling vibrations. I opened up my bottom bracket last month to find that my ball bearing retainers had both sheared open. I found some other retainers with simular sized ball bearings at the workshop and stuck those inside. Now im finding that I have pedaling resistance that comes and goes as I ride.
Positron there told me that I could throw in some larger ball bearings instead. This sounds like a great way to deal with my current problems and make the BB more durable. I thought untill now, that they were a necessary component to make the BB work. I suppose that I was wrong? I just want to find out more information and make sure im going to do this correctly so that I dont end up with an unsafe BB.
The retainers I had with the original BB took 9 balls. When I was looking through the ball bearing retainers and bearings at the workshop it seemed like theres some size standard for both bearings and retainers with 9 bearings. I also kept a couple of the original ball bearings that came with the spindle I currently use.
What is the process for finding ball bearings to go into the BB without a cage, so that there will be a good fit?
Do any of you do this? How has it turned out?
What should I watch out for when trying this?
+ any other information on this would be helpfull
those bearing retainers only help hold the bearings during installation.
in a cup and cone BB, the bearings are actually held in place by the bearing races (think about it for a second, it has to be this way to work...)
back in the 'good ol days', we would pull the bearing "cages" out, and toss in slightly larger ball bearings for increased durability.
Those bearing cages always failed eventually.
in a cup and cone BB, the bearings are actually held in place by the bearing races (think about it for a second, it has to be this way to work...)
back in the 'good ol days', we would pull the bearing "cages" out, and toss in slightly larger ball bearings for increased durability.
Those bearing cages always failed eventually.
The retainers I had with the original BB took 9 balls. When I was looking through the ball bearing retainers and bearings at the workshop it seemed like theres some size standard for both bearings and retainers with 9 bearings. I also kept a couple of the original ball bearings that came with the spindle I currently use.
What is the process for finding ball bearings to go into the BB without a cage, so that there will be a good fit?
Do any of you do this? How has it turned out?
What should I watch out for when trying this?
+ any other information on this would be helpfull
#2
I wouldn't worry about the size. Use same size as you have (1/4"?) . You may be able to get an extra ball in there without the cage taking up space. Just make sure there is enough space between balls to allow free movement. Assembly can be a little tricky without the cage since races are perpendicular to ground so gravity is working against you. Use enough grease to hold balls in place in the fixed cup until you can get the spindle in there. Do same with adjutsable cup. Tighten until play is gone. To make balls last longer, store bike in dry place (get water out of frame if you ride in the rain), periodically check adjustable cup to make sure it is adjusted properly, and regrease bearings periodically (for this latter part, no need to remove fixed cup; just remove adustable cup and spindle and shoot grease into fixed side from the adjustable side).
Last edited by DOS; 02-14-11 at 10:52 AM.
#3
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Typical bearing retainers don't take up any space, and possibly the worst thing you can do is to add one more ball than there's room for. An overloaded bearing will be very difficult to adjust (often impossible) and will sometimes cause the axle to go off center.
Likewise with changing the ball size. The curvature of the races is such that the balls make contact in the center of the ground and polished area. If you increase the ball size the contact area will move inward on the spindle and outward in the cups possibly going beyond the working area, causing problems.
Leave bearing design to those who do it for a living, and use the number and size of balls your BB was designed for. It's fine to remove the retainer, since it's only an assembly convenience. It might also be OK to add an extra ball, but don't unless you're sure there's room.
You can check the ball count by assembling the spindle into a cup out of the frame and noting whether there's still a gap between the balls. If you use a spoke to move the balls around you can usually get a gap of about 1/2 a ball in one spot. If you can get a gap wider than a ball add one and check again.
If the parts have smooth undamaged races (polished silvery ball track in the middle of the race area) and you use clean, decent quality grease, you should be able to adjust for zero play, plus a bit of preload and have a smooth running lasting bottom bracket.
Likewise with changing the ball size. The curvature of the races is such that the balls make contact in the center of the ground and polished area. If you increase the ball size the contact area will move inward on the spindle and outward in the cups possibly going beyond the working area, causing problems.
Leave bearing design to those who do it for a living, and use the number and size of balls your BB was designed for. It's fine to remove the retainer, since it's only an assembly convenience. It might also be OK to add an extra ball, but don't unless you're sure there's room.
You can check the ball count by assembling the spindle into a cup out of the frame and noting whether there's still a gap between the balls. If you use a spoke to move the balls around you can usually get a gap of about 1/2 a ball in one spot. If you can get a gap wider than a ball add one and check again.
If the parts have smooth undamaged races (polished silvery ball track in the middle of the race area) and you use clean, decent quality grease, you should be able to adjust for zero play, plus a bit of preload and have a smooth running lasting bottom bracket.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
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#4
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Joined: Nov 2004
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Took my 1983 Raleigh Olympian and put a newer BB and Sugino crank from a 1988 Giant into it. Lately i've been having some problems with the spindle being a little loose, & weird pedaling vibrations. I opened up my bottom bracket last month to find that my ball bearing retainers had both sheared open. I found some other retainers with simular sized ball bearings at the workshop and stuck those inside. Now im finding that I have pedaling resistance that comes and goes as I ride.
Positron there told me that I could throw in some larger ball bearings instead. This sounds like a great way to deal with my current problems and make the BB more durable.
The retainers I had with the original BB took 9 balls. When I was looking through the ball bearing retainers and bearings at the workshop it seemed like theres some size standard for both bearings and retainers with 9 bearings. I also kept a couple of the original ball bearings that came with the spindle I currently use.
#5
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Bikes: 1996 LeMond Yellow Jersey, 2013 Soma Saga, 1980 Zebrakenko Wind, 1980 Nishiki Ultimate
Typical bearing retainers don't take up any space, and possibly the worst thing you can do is to add one more ball than there's room for. An overloaded bearing will be very difficult to adjust (often impossible) and will sometimes cause the axle to go off center.
Leave bearing design to those who do it for a living, and use the number and size of balls your BB was designed for. It's fine to remove the retainer, since it's only an assembly convenience. It might also be OK to add an extra ball, but don't unless you're sure there's room.
Leave bearing design to those who do it for a living, and use the number and size of balls your BB was designed for. It's fine to remove the retainer, since it's only an assembly convenience. It might also be OK to add an extra ball, but don't unless you're sure there's room.
I think I installed them correctly... It was my first time, so I actually cant remember now. Im not even sure, off the top of my head, which way is the right way. What should I look for on the spindle in relation to ball bearing or retainer damage?You are right, they are 1/4" bearings! Although I am certain that I had and have 9 loaded into each retainer on each side, for a total of 16. To hold 11 I would definetly have to change ball size and number. I remember checking the bearings and bearing retainers with the cups, prior to assembly. Everything fit pretty well, so it will be interesting to see if theres a gap I overlooked when I did it the first time that I can fit an extra ball into.
#6
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An 11-ball retainer is installed with the ring facing "out:"
#7
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Thanks for the photographs! They are a very good reference.
-also: How does one mount a crank on a spindle that has threaded holes instead of threads coming out? Im assuming theres like a threaded set of rods I would buy and screw in first somehow...
Last edited by NukeouT; 02-15-11 at 02:14 PM.
#9
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OTOH, put a ring of grease in the cups , stick the balls in the grease , slip the axle in [fixed cup]
then screw in the adjustable cup, the grease holds the balls in place till you get it together..
retainer becomes redundant.
then screw in the adjustable cup, the grease holds the balls in place till you get it together..
retainer becomes redundant.
#10
[QUOTE=NukeouT;12229934
Thanks for the photographs! They are a very good reference.[/QUOTE]
Common theme here is that only balls come in contact with the bearing surface. If any of the cage contacts the surface, flip it over.
Thanks for the photographs! They are a very good reference.[/QUOTE]
Common theme here is that only balls come in contact with the bearing surface. If any of the cage contacts the surface, flip it over.
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trayraynor
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