cam acuated brakes
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: s.e. michigan
Bikes: cannondale,trex,schwinn
cam acuated brakes
i picked up a 80's vitage raliegh edge. its pink with yellow cables and has a 26 in the front with a 24 in the rear, sorta unique. i am going thru it for my wife to ride and see if she really likes riding before i spend any money. anyway i took the cam and rear brakes off to clean them up and all but am having a hell of a time holding the cam in position, getting the cable hooked up while holding the brake pads against the wheel, i need more hands. any advice? gotta be a better way, thanks
#2
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Third hand tool. A C-clamp would probably work if you have one that's about the right size.
I'm thinking there's a reason why those cam actuated brakes never caught on.
I'm thinking there's a reason why those cam actuated brakes never caught on.
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#3
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Joined: Sep 2015
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From: New Jersey
Cantilevers, while they have a similar issue, are nowhere near as bad.
Extra wear parts, higher maintenance, little gain...same thing that killed "parallel push" v-brakes. The cams that they use now in hydraulics work great to maintain a larger pad gap, while avoiding the drawback of pad gapping that mechanically-actuated brakes have.
[MENTION=21434]chizlr40[/MENTION] if you decide that the brakes are too much trouble to get working satisfactorily, u-brakes can be used in lieu of roller brakes with little-to-no modification.
#4
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Joined: Aug 2016
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Adjusting Roller-cam Bicycle Brakes
I remember these. I had an early mtn bike with these, and I liked them. Very strong braking and great feel if they are adjusted right. But you have to be a decent bike wrencher to make them worth the bother.
I think an engineer tried putting a brake on the chainstays as they're stiffer than seatstays, less outward flex when you brake.
I remember these. I had an early mtn bike with these, and I liked them. Very strong braking and great feel if they are adjusted right. But you have to be a decent bike wrencher to make them worth the bother.
I think an engineer tried putting a brake on the chainstays as they're stiffer than seatstays, less outward flex when you brake.
Last edited by grizzly59; 02-20-17 at 03:52 PM.
#5
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
And there were a few different cam plate shapes which changed the pad movement/power VS lever movement relationships. WTB and SunTour were the two manufactures I recall and each had at least two cam plate contours. Cramming all this right next to sharp and dirty chain rings made life for a wrench and their hands. Also the chain lube and sling off from the tire made a mess of pad friction and pivot spring balancing. I don't know why but a brake stiffener plate (brake booster) never caught on, as this was the far better solution to flexi seat stays. Andy.





