Cannot shift to largest cog in rear
#1
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Cannot shift to largest cog in rear
I am helping someone in my RV park with their very old bike. The shifters disintegrated. He has Sram 5.0 components, eight speed on the rear, three on the front. I put on a Sram 3.0 3x8 speed shifters. The front shifts fine. No matter what I do I cannot get it to shift to the largest cog on the rear. I can physically push the deraiileur and it will shift to the largest cog but it won't by pulling the cable. I went through the usual routine of checking the limit screws but when it won't shift to the largest cog I am not so sure how to check it. Letting it out more did not help. Cable tension makes no difference. Bent derailleur hanger maybe? I can't see anything obvious by looking at it and other than the big cog it shifts perfectly.
#2
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From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
I remember your screen name so I'm going to assume that you have done all of the typical things. Bent derailleur hanger is a good suspect. In fact, on an old bike, they have very frequently gotten bent inward at soma time.
Shift into a gear combination that makes the hanger point downward. Then prop the bike up against something and look at the derailleur from the back. If the derailleur arm seems to point toward the rear wheel, that's it.
Park tool makes a device to measure and straighten it but, on a 7 or 8-speed, I have been successful just eyeballing the hanger into line. My technique is to leave the derailleur in place so the mounting bolt hole doesn't get ovalized and clamping a big Crescent wrench over the whole thing. Eyeball the derailleur arm until it is parallel with the cassette cogs and you should be good-to-go.
Shift into a gear combination that makes the hanger point downward. Then prop the bike up against something and look at the derailleur from the back. If the derailleur arm seems to point toward the rear wheel, that's it.
Park tool makes a device to measure and straighten it but, on a 7 or 8-speed, I have been successful just eyeballing the hanger into line. My technique is to leave the derailleur in place so the mounting bolt hole doesn't get ovalized and clamping a big Crescent wrench over the whole thing. Eyeball the derailleur arm until it is parallel with the cassette cogs and you should be good-to-go.
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#3
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From: Reykjavík
Bikes: Trek Crossrip 2 2017, Cube Cruve Pro 2015 and Berlín Dutch Bike 3 speed 2014
Checking the hanger is good.
You should if you haven't check the upper jockey wheel for play. It should not move more than mm or so.
It could affect the shifting if it has excessive play.
You should if you haven't check the upper jockey wheel for play. It should not move more than mm or so.
It could affect the shifting if it has excessive play.
#4
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From: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Bikes: 87 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds. 2019 Giant Explore E+3
Is the RDER an "X" series? I think they take a different pull ratio than the n.0 series.
#5
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Jockey wheels seem fine. Eyeballing the derailleur hanger isn't telling me anything obvious but maybe just maybe a slight inward bend. I have a local bike co-op here in Tucson and tonight is women's night. I'll take it by there and can use their derailleur hanger tool to check and straighten it. I don't have a big crescent wrench at my winter home to try to fix it myself.
#6
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#9
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#10
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#12
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#13
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I'm thinking maybe somebody got a spacer on the wrong side and now the hub's not centered and too far from the derailleur. Not exactly a dish problem, but a check of the dish would reveal it.
Long shot since the other cogs all shift well.
While I'm thinking of it - maybe there should be a spacer between the hub and cassette that's not there?
Long shot since the other cogs all shift well.
While I'm thinking of it - maybe there should be a spacer between the hub and cassette that's not there?
Last edited by DiabloScott; 02-20-17 at 04:03 PM.
#14
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#15
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I'm thinking maybe somebody got a spacer on the wrong side and now the hub's not centered and too far from the derailleur. Not exactly a dish problem, but a check of the dish would reveal it.
Long shot since the other cogs all shift well.
While I'm thinking of it - maybe there should be a spacer between the hub and cassette that's not there?
Long shot since the other cogs all shift well.
While I'm thinking of it - maybe there should be a spacer between the hub and cassette that's not there?
#16
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From: Brisbane Aust
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Are lower-end SRAM derailleurs/shifters compatible now?
https://www.bentrideronline.com/messa...t=61767&page=2
#17
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Just sounds like an indexing miss-match? Perhaps a 3.0 isn't compatable with 5.0, perhaps it's designed for a narrower chain. How does the chain sit on each cog on the way up?
Are lower-end SRAM derailleurs/shifters compatible now?
Are lower-end SRAM derailleurs/shifters compatible now? - Page 2 - BentRider Online Forums
Are lower-end SRAM derailleurs/shifters compatible now?
Are lower-end SRAM derailleurs/shifters compatible now? - Page 2 - BentRider Online Forums
#19
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Hmmm....
Once you've eliminated a bent RD hanger, just for fun I'd try increasing the upper limit screw to just beyond where you think it should stop, and see if it doesn't allow the RD to go a bit further than it's going now.
Last edited by ridelikeaturtle; 02-20-17 at 04:57 PM.
#20
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Unrelated. Rim position has nothing to do with derailleurs.
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#21
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My initial thought of a bent derailleur hanger was correct. The mechanic at the co-op and I both looked and thought it wasn't bent or was only very very slightly bent. We were wrong as it was bent enough that there was a half an inch difference between the top and the bottom of the wheel. Now oddly it looks bent but is straight. It shifts fine. Six bucks of shop time well worth getting it properly straightened.
Last edited by goldfinch; 02-20-17 at 06:49 PM.
#23
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My initial thought of a bent derailleur hanger was correct. The mechanic at the co-op and I both looked and thought it wasn't bent or was only very very slightly bent. We were wrong as it was bent enough that there was a half an inch difference between the top and the bottom of the wheel. Now oddly it looks bent but is straight. It shifts fine. Six bucks of shop time well worth getting it properly straightened.
Keep an eye on eBay for a used Park DAG-2, you can get one relatively cheap and it's nice to have in the toolbox.
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