ill be buying a new fork and not sure what to look for in order to have it fit (new to "modern" bikes)

26 check
1 1/8 inch(or something?) headtube -check (have to saw leftover headtube off? have tools)
100-120mm travel -check
quick release -check
discs -check
hub spacing/size?? dont see it anywhere, one size fits all?
bearings?
total lenght of the fork?
different disc mounting options?
disc spacing??

on google i found: XC International Standard for 6" disk, must have the manual around so i can verify, the new fork im looking at says: Postmount 6”, max. disc Ø180 mm (im running 160?), is this a problem?

anything else?

and if i wanted to replace my front brake while im at it, anything there to keep in mind?

Looks like you should be good. Ignoring newer thru-axles, front hubs almost all fit the same way.
Brake mounts can be either Post-Mount (PM) or IS mount.
Brake calipers are with overwhelming majority made for PM.
If you want to use 160 mm rotors, the caliper can go straight on the mounts for PM.
For IS, you'll need an adapter. For 180 mm rotors you'll need an adapter both for PM and IS.
Disc spacing MIGHT need a little tweaking, depending on margin of adjustment in the caliper, but is by definition set.
Total length is commonly discussed on rigid forks, but for sus forks you match travel and you're done.
Disc mount is hub dependent, 6-bolt or centerlock, but the fork has no opinion about that.
You'll need to pry the crown race off the old fork and transfer it to the new prior to installation on the bike.
Want to replace the brake - go ahead.

Good suspension forks are like $900..

Only if you want pro-grade hardware.
The Suntour XCR Air is perfectly decent and can be found for <$200 all day long.
Here's a Fox Float 32, and it's only $540.
Fox 32 Float 26 120 Performance Grip Fork 9QR

They were even cheaper for the OEM , By the thousands , vs retail for 1.

More info please. Bike ? Does it have a tapered steerer tube for the current fork? Front is probably 100mm but boost 110 is common now.

thanks guys thought i had it all but just wasnt sure, also checked my current fork and it has the postmount mount so it till fit straight on, the rear has the is mount, but ill build that bridge when i see the river

its a lowend fork but past the wallmark section, 450$ but the discount brings it right in the range for a winter commuter

also got me the right adapter for a larger disc, would upgrading the pump also increase power or only modulation? im just looking for that extra stopping power..

its a full 1 1/8 or straight or non tapered

Wat


My Rockshox Recon Silver Solo Air costs $190-240 depending on the online site and it works perfectly fine. Toss the amount of air in it that you want and it compresses and rebounds.

Suspension, like most components, is a category where there are cutoffs between lower end, good solid middle of the road, and high end. The benefits from low end to solid middle are a big jump in quality and an incremental jump in price. The benefits from middle to high end are incremental in quality and a big jump in price.
You can get 75% of the performance for 30% of the price.

trade offs lower the price.. what do you want to sacrifice heavier weight?

can i mix and match discs and caliper models/brands? they recommend a certain model disc for that caliper but that not in shop, pick same size different model and ride it till the wheels fall off?

(ill be saving 200grams, not worth the price but its not bad either)

+1, that's a nice way of saying it. Bottom line: stay away from cheap elastomer forks that are commonly found on the most entry level mtb's and get into a relatively inexpensive RockShox, etc air fork with a rebound adjuster and most riders will be well served.....Like you, I'm a fan of the Solo Air (one air chamber for positive and negative air) forks from RockShox. Super easy to fine tune the preload with air pressure, and they have rebound adjusters that actually allow fine tuning there, too. My Reba from a few years ago has certainly served me well.

Usually, yes.

alrighty last question:
how do i pick my brakes?!

sram level or the older db5
or
shimano M425 /M395

or another model but these are cheap and in stock so might as well..

My suggestion is Shimano hydraulics on the brakes.

Obviously. Point is though- good forks can be had for much less than $900.

Own the shop* and they cost less..

*or work there.. cost + 10%

Only suspension fork I have is what came on my Koga Trekking Bike, Its modified at the factory to have a Pannier Rack on it.

If it's an SR Suntour fork, they have a trade-in upgrade program. Might be too late if this is an older bike, though.

Haven't personally seen an elastomer fork in over a decade. Even $80 Roadmasters have coils.

Quite right - MOST name-brand forks come in at half to 2/3 of that.

Ok...this has nothing to do with the topic or even your original point, but its now noted- stuff is less expensive when you buy it thru your work's discount program.

I got a really good fork from Aliexpress for $200. I didnt expect much but it worked very well. My main goal was finding a fork with adjustable damping. I cant give you a long term report since the bike was stolen but I had a blast in AZ and UT on it for 2 weeks. Suntour Epixon. Comes in different sizes and brakes.

-SP